outdoors

May

The month of May is upon once us again. It’s the first full month of spring, and it’s also the month of the unofficial start of summer, also known as Memorial Day Weekend. The month starts out with the green of early spring well under way, and leaves us with the signs of a spring maturing, and summer well under way.

Pasture and Field

There will be warm days and cool days in May. The days will continue to grow longer and longer, until we reach the end of the month, and almost feel like the lengthening days are too long too be true. They will prove to be true, once the end of June comes and we start to see maturing summer work it’s way towards August, and ultimately the fall.

Farms and gardeners will prepare and plant their crops. Many will work outdoors, soaking up the beautiful warming weather of spring time. They will enjoying the changing outdoors, that will ultimately in four months bring fall time bounty. Things will start to growth, and the natural world will come alive again.

Power

May is a month of barbecues, parades, camping out under the stars, and much beauty this month. Much to enjoy, much to do that wasn’t possible when things where colder and not nearly as green. The days will past quickly as we work ourselves into the first true month of summer with June, but it still sure will be nice.

Wider

So enjoy this beautiful first month of what hopefully will be many months with long and beautiful nights outdoors.

Making Maps of Round Lake Wilderness in QGIS

You are thinking about going to the Round Lake Wilderness for a Canoe Trip. You would like a map, but don’t want to spend $10 bucks to buy one, when you get a better looking map for free with more accurate data from the NYS Department of Environmental Conservation and NYS Department of Transportation, using a free GIS program known as Quantum GIS or “QGIS” for short. When you are done with this tutorial, you will end up with a map that looks like this.

Fermented

QGIS like all GIS programs can seamlessly glue together multiple topographic quadrangles (such as the Sabbist and Little Tupper Lake quads needed for this map), and then superimpose campsites, trails, and other data you need β€” that might not be available on a typical topographic map. As your printing your own map, you don’t have to worry about keeping it dry or keeping it from getting damaged.

All GIS software is highly technical and a bit complicated to use. Putting together a good map is a fair bit of work, but once you master it, you will be able to put together quite nice looking maps. I hope this rather length fodder article will send you on your way to making good maps of NY State.

Step 1: Download and Install QGIS.

First you need to download a free copy of the open-source Quantum GIS program from QGIS.org. It runs on Windows, Linux, or Mac OS X and is relatively easy to install. Then open QGIS on up. It will look something like this, depending how many plugins you have installed and your version of QGIS.

Hint: Save your work regularly when working in QGIS by going to File -> Save Project menu. It’s always good to save regularly in any GIS program, as your dealing with large files, and its always possible that QGIS could crash, and you would lose your work.

Step 2: NYS DOT Topographic Index.

Next, you will need to get some data to fill up that blank screen. You will probably want to go the NYS GIS website and download the 7.5 minute topographic index (aka 1:24,000 scaled topographic maps). This “Shapefile” β€” a file containing data used to draw shapes, dots, or lines in a Geographic Information System (GIS) program β€” contains an overview map of NY State, with boxes representing each of the 965 7.5 minute topographic maps that make up NY State.

NY 1:24,000 Topographic Map Coverage Index Shapefile. (90 KB) Contains the outlines of all 965 7.5′ topographic maps in NY State. Freely available from NYSGIS Website, under the Digital Raster Quadrangles.

Download, expand, and open the NYSDOT Topographic Map. You can open it in QGIS by using Vector -> Add Vector Layer.

7.5 minute topographic maps are the most accurate topographic maps typically available. The NYS Department of Transportation provides high-resolution, 509 DPI, scans of all 965 topographic maps it creates. Each scanned in map is in a file called a “GeoTIFF”, and is divided into 3 or four files, consisting of each color used on a standard DOT topographic map.

Step 3: Projection.

It’s Very Confusing, BUT VERY IMPORTANT!!

When you load that 7.5 minute topographic index into QGIS, you might be surprised to see how that map is distorted, and does not look like the map above. This is because the earth is not a flat surface, and there are many ways to draw a map of the earth, to reflect the curvature of the earth. We call that the projection of the map β€” how we project a curved surface on a flat sheet of paper or a flat screen.

There are actually thousands of ways to project the surface of the earth, such as unprojected latitude and longitude (called WGS84) that squashes north and south on maps, regular Mercator which puts things on an even latitude or longitude on a flat plain (NY State appears with a flat border along Pennsylvania at the 42nd parallel), and Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM), which most accurately shows distance and relative position of items, at the cost of over distance appearing somewhat distorted.

For all your New York State mapping projects, you are only going to use one projection β€” Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM) Zone 18. This is one set in official state regulations as what all state agencies are supposed to use, and it’s what NYSDOT Topographic maps are drawn in. For your adventures in making maps for hiking, camping, hunting, fishing, and boating, your going to want to always use NAD83 / UTM Zone 18N in NY State.

Go to File -> Project Properties, and click on the Coordinate Reference System (CRS) tab. Browse through the list for NAD 83 / UTM Zone 18N. Click on “Enable ‘On the Fly CRS Transformation”.

Clarification. Then click the triangle next to Projected Coordinate Systems, then click the triangle next to Universal Transverse Mercator, then scroll down to NAD 83 / UTM Zone 18N (ESPG:26918). Alternatively on the search box on that same page, search for Authority: All, Search for: ID, and enter in 26918. QGIS will remember your settings and default to this projection for future projects.

To ensure everything is projected in NAD 83 / UTM 18N, make sure to Enable ‘On the Fly’ CRS Transformation. QGIS will automatically convert “Shapefiles” and other vector data into the proper projection. QGIS can not do this for scanned in images or similar “raster” data.

Check and recheck to make sure you did this projection step correctly. Otherwise, you will get messed up maps, and you will get lost. Confusing, definitely but the most important step.

Step 4: Now Let’s Load Some Data.

Shapefiles and vector data are all loaded in the same way. You download the file, expand it, and load it into QGIS. Here are some Shapefiles I recommend you download and load into QGIS:

DEC Lands Outlines Shapefile. (5.4 MB) Contains the outlines of all lands under the control and jurisdiction of the Department of Environmental Conservation. Does not include Town Parks, Canal Authority Parks, Parks Maintained by Office of Parks, Recreation, and Historic Preservation. Also does not include Conservation Easements. Freely available from NYSGIS Website, under the DEC Section.

DEC Roads and Trails Shapefile. (5.8 MB) Contains many of the roads and trails maintained by the DEC. Does not include local, county, or state roads, and in some regions of state, there is no trail data available. Freely available from NYSGIS Website, under the DEC Section.

DEC Physical Assets Shapefile. (0.2 MB) Contains many of the physical facilities maintained by DEC β€” specifically lean-tos, back country campsites, boat launches, fishing docks, firetowers, etc. This is available using a Freedom of Information Law Request. The DEC will send it to you in 5 days, if you email the Records Access Officer. I have put a copy of this file on my blog, of the exact form I got it back from the DEC, to allow you to avoid unnecessary FOIL requests.

OpenStreet Map: NY State Shapefile. (105 MB) I found this some time ago on a now defunct website and have made several modifications to it over the years. It is freely available data, originally based on US Census TIGER lines, but with certain modifications, such as removing certain roads from wilderness areas. One should consider it public domain as it’s just US Census data, and you are free to edit and redistribute it. You can download my copy from this blog.

Once you load the data into QGIS you should be able to zoom in and explore the map, and get a general idea of what area you are interested. The random colors chosen by QGIS to display this data are pretty hideous, but we will change them in a bit.

Zoom into the area you interested in, by looking at the general outlines of the public lands. You can use the maganifying glass to zoom in, the hand to move around, and the cursor next to the (i) icon, to display information about various features.

Step 5: NYSDOT Topographic Maps.

Next we need to figure what NY State Department of Transportation (NYSDOT) 7.5″ topographic maps we will need to make a “base” map of Round Lake. Click the cursor next to the (i) icon, then onto the the map, where you need to figure out what topographic map you want. As I see from the results, I will need the Sabbatist Quadrangle (among 4 others nearby), which is available from NYSGIS.

NYSDOT Topographic GeoTIFFs at 1:24,000 Scale. (2 MB per quad) There are 965 quads in NY State. The NYSDOT topos have the most up to date roads on them, and come with each color layer seperate. The average file is about 2 MB. I downloaded the whole set from their FTP site, but you can download only the ones you need at first, but having the full set sure is convient.

NYSDOT Topographic Maps are scanned at 508 DPI, and are georeferenced NAD 83 / UTM 18N GeoTIFF images, that QGIS will automatically position on map for you to create a seamless map across data layers, as long as you properly set the projection in QGIS in Step 2. Maps will line up perfectly, even a certain map consists of many different quadrangles.

I do not recommend the USGS Digital Raster Graphic (DRG) Quadrangles. They are typically older, use the obsolete UTM 18 / NAD 27 coordinate system, and do not have individual files for each color layer. Moreover, the 1:100,000 Digital Raster Quadrangles and 1:250,000 Digital Raster Quadrangles, do not have the needed resolution (detail) for doing hiking or other outdoor maps. If your doing a broad overview maps β€” like for spotting peaks off a firetower, they might be useful, but not for general use.

Each NYSDOT Topographic Map consists of 4 different black and white GeoTIFF images. There is no transparency data in this maps, nor any color in them. You are free to set transparency or color as you please. They are as follows:

  • plan – Man made features and labels such as roads or mountain names. May also include unnavigable streams, borders on lakes, etc. Anything that would be printed black on the NYSDOT topographic map.
  • hyd – Lakes and navigable waterways. Anything that would be printed light blue on the NYSDOT topographic map.
  • topo – Topographic lines showing general elevation and slope. Anything that would be printed light brown (color of topographic lines) on the NYSDOT topographic map
  • bua – Built Up Area, background. Areas that have a lot of development, such as cities. Anything that would be printed light pink or yellow on a NYSDOT topographic map. I usually don’t use this layer, not found in rural quads.

You can load them using the Layer Menu -> Add Raster Layer, menu item. Using the control key, you can load multiple files at one. I try to load all the layers I will need at once, as it can take time to load layers, and it’s good to get it done at once.

Remember, these are scanned in images or pictures of the topographic maps, they can not be easily edited or queried in QGIS. Zoom in too far, and they become pixelated. Yet, they usually provide an excellent back drop for outdoors maps.

When you first load one of these maps, you will see a picture like this. The topographic layers for some reason chose to load first, and appear on top, and with no color or transparency set, they are pretty useless out of the box.

Typically you will want to arrange the topographic layers, so that the plan layers are on top, followed by the hyd layers, then the topo layers, and finally the bua layers. With the plan layer up top, the map will start to make a little bit more sense, give you a better idea if you loaded the proper quads.

Next you will want to go through every GeoTIFF Topographic Map layer you have uploaded, and change white to transparent. You do this by right clicking on each layer, and choosing Properties. Then click on the Transparency tab in the Layers Properties dialog that comes up.

Double click on -32768.00 on the Indexed Value column, and change it to 0. This will make all white portions of the map 100% transparent. NYSDOT Topographic Maps do not contain any useful transparency data, so you will want to make all white areas in the map transparent.

If you are working on a hyd layer, topo layer, or bua layer, you will want to go the color map layer, and change the color for value 1.00000 by double clicking on the color next to it. Black is the default color, but that isn’t helpful except for the plan layer. You need not change the 0.0000 color, as you have already set that to be transparent, and it will not be visible on the map.

Then click OK, and the dialog will close, and transparency and colors will be visible on the map layer you just changed. Besides those awful background colors, the map that is being displayed starts to look a lot more useful now.

Right click on NYS_QuadIndex and choose Properties. Go to the Style tab. While we really do not have to use this layer any more, and could just disable it by unchecking it, I like to use it as a yellow background to indicate non-DEC lands on a map. To do this, click on the color box next to Fill Options, and set it to light yellow, as I did, or whatever color you want to represent private lands. Then go to Outline Options and choose an invisible line, to hide the quad boundaries.

It’s now starting to look a little better.

Now it we do the same with DEC Lands Outlines, setting it white or whatever color you prefer. Make sure it’s dragged above NYS Quad Index on the Layers, but below the Topographic Maps. I prefer no borders to be shown, as I find DEC boundaries to be confusing, as often Wilderness borders Wild Forest or Primitive Areas, leading to strange lines appearing in the maps. If you care about such borders, do leave them on though.

Now you got a map that is almost ready for use, that is once we delete roads that we know don’t really exist in a wilderness area, stylize campsites versus other facilities, stylize roads versus hiking trails, and maybe add some labels.

Step 6: Stylizing Roads versus Trails.

I like to make hiking trails a dashed black line of 0.75 map units, and roads a solid black line of 0.75 map units. This ensures on black and white printers one can tell the difference. To do this, right click on DEC Road and Trails, then the Style tab. From here, choose Unique Value from Legend Type.

We will use the MOTORV field to decide if something is a road or a hiking trail. Obviously, if this was a winter map, we might change this field to SNOWMOBILE or X-COUNTRY SKI. This field contains, ‘Y’, ‘N’, ‘M’, ‘U’, and sometimes ‘YES’, ‘NO’, depending on the forest ranger that inputed the data. Set the style as you wish.

Choose classification field MOTORV, then click the classify button. All of the different possibilities for roads or trails allowing motor vehicles will be shown. From there, set the colors and line styles as you so choose.

Step 7: Removing Invalid Roads from NYS Highways Shapefile.

If you use the OpenStreet Map Highway file future on the page, you will see it often has lines that overlap DEC hiking and truck trails, and has old woods roads or other invalid data, that you will need to delete to clean up your map, and avoid confusing users. It’s pretty safe to delete all highways from Wilderness-areas, unless you are sure that such a road actually exists.

You need to right click on New York Highways Shapefile, and choose Toggle Editing. A pencil will appear next to that layer. Then use the select tool on the second toolbar, in the upper left (selected in box below). Highlight the streets you want to delete, and they will appear yellow.

Use the Delete Selected button to delete the roads you have highlighted. Notice buttons nearby that allow you to split features into multiple features. These are helpful if you know only part of a road has been closed or abandoned, and you want to remove only part of the road from your map.

I zoomed in on Round Lake to search for other invalid roads I wanted to remove. Looks okay now, although I still question some of those roads located in Whitney Headquarters. Having not been there, I can not say which ones have been gated or abandoned, so I will leave them on for now. Right click on the NY Highways Layer to save your changes to that Shapefile.

Step 8: Stylizing Assets.

Next we need to change the various DEC Physical Assets from a single color dot, to icons that represent the asset. With the current map, we can not tell the difference between a campsite, a parking area, or trail register. This could be rather confusing for anyone using our map.

This is very similar to changing the symbols for roads versus hiking trails in the previous step. Go back to the properties dialog. This time, we want to stylize things based on Unique Value, then Classification field Asset. Then, click Classify. This will create unique color for each icon. By browsing the “Point Symbol”, you can now give primitive campsites proper looking icons. Don’t forget to set the size. I usually set icons at Size 3.0 or 4.0, but it varies a lot on the final scale of the map.

Finally, I zoomed in to check on my work. Wit the icons set, we have a pretty nice looking map. I can spot the campsites, parking areas, trails, and the private property-public lands boundaries. I know where to put in my kayak, to explore Round Lake. It’s too bad, I don’t know which if any roads to remove from Whitney Headquarters, so I’ll have to go in person if I want to correct the map.

Step 9: Adding Labels to Trails and Roads.

Yet, I would also like to see some names on the roads and trails. Select the DEC Trails layer. Go to Layers menu and choose Labeling. From here, click Label This Layer, then choose Fields with Labels and select Name. The default style of 12 point fonts is almost always too large for most maps, a font size between 5 to 7 points is what you mostly likely will use. Then select, Buffer to create a small white background around each label. This is usually necessary to make your labels appear readable on the map.

Then click the Advanced tab. The default placement for labels is Parallel, which labels the largest amount of items, but doesn’t look very pretty. Curved is the prettiest, but it will not label particularly twisty lines. Priority controls which labels are most important if you have multiple layered roads. I usually set NYS Highway Shapefile to a low priority as the underlying topos usually also have road names, and trails to a much higher priority.

So now you should be set with labels. You have to do this with each layer with labels, such as the NYS Highways layer. You can do this also with the assets layers, although I generally do not bother, as I don’t really care about the sometimes lengthy names the DEC gives campsites.

Step 10: Printing and Making Images to Export.

Looking at a map in QGIS is kind of fun, but pretty useless when your on the trail. Go to File -> New Print Composer. A dialog like this will appear.

Next, you will want to change the paper size to something more reasonable then A4. Most likely you’ll choose Letter-sized paper. Below that set the resolution. Choose the orientation most appropriate for your map, I often use Landscape. To get high quality map print outs, you will want to set the the quality box somewheres between 300 to 500 dpi. Even if you are just exporting as a picture, it is good to preserve the resolution for future printing.

Then click on the canvas icon (circled in blue), to draw the surface the map on your canvas. This will provide you a canvas to draw on your page surface. You may wish to click “Snap to Grid” and set “Spacing to 5.0” to make it easier to line the canvas up. Click the magnifying glass, with the plus sign or the icon directly to the left of it, to expand the window so it’s easier to work on the canvas. This doesn’t change output, only the display on the screen.

Next, click Item tab, and then the Extents label. This will bring up the map extent box. The extents of the map will be listed in Northing and Easting, a series of large numbers that tell you how many meters you are North and East of the Greenwich, England. This is the standard form of measurement used by the Universal Transverse Mercator positioning system. Just click, “Set to Map Canvas Extent”.

Click Map. You can use the Earth on Hand Tool (circled blue on this screenshot), to move around the image on the map. Then you can go to the scale box, and adjust the zoom. Smaller numbers mean more zoom in. A standard topographic map is at 1:24,000 scale, however, I generally prefer a scale of 1:18,000 or so to make the map more readable. If you zoom in too far, the topographic map β€” a raster map, will become pixalated. In addition, if you zoom in too far in or out, you will have to adjust the thickness of trails on the map, and the size of icons.

Scale Bar, Labels.

The labeling tool is fairly self explanatory. It appears like a tag on the top of the screen (circled red). Use it to add labels, such as the name of the map and other details. Set the font, background color, and other options under the Item tab and the various lablels.

More challenging is adding a scale bar. Draw it using the scale bar tool (circled in green). The big hint here is that topographic maps are projected in Universal Transverse Mercator or UTM, which is a metric system. Each map unit is equal to one meter. Chances are you don’t care about kilometers. Set Map units per bar unit to 1610, which is roughly 1610 meters per mile. There are actually closer to 1609 meters per mile, but you will never notice the difference, as the map is at too large of a scale to notice that extra meter.

Then set the Segment size (map units) to a fraction of 1610. I typically do maps at 1:18,000 scale, so a segment size of 402.5, which is equal to 402.5 meters or 1/4 mile works perfectly. For larger maps, you’ll want to use a segment size of 805 meters (1/2 mile), or maybe even 1610 meters (1 mile).

Below Map units per bar unit is 4 Right segments and 0 Left segments. Set them as you please, but if your doing a 1/4 mile per segment scale, then the default of 4 usually works well.

Finally, don’t forget to type in a unit label. This doesn’t effect anything, but it’s nice for the user of the map to know what the scale is done in.

Step 11: Printing or Saving.

Most of the time you’ll want to save your map as a JPEG image, that you can open up at any time easily, add to a Microsoft Word document, email to friends, or print at a later time. I circled the save as an image button with a yellow circle. Assuming, you set the resolution sufficiently detailed (such as 300-500 DPI), you’ll get an excellent print out later on. Save your image and your done.

Alternatively, you can print directly from QGIS. I circled the print icon with red. I do not recommend this option, as it’s a pain to have to open up the saved QGIS project, and then the open print composer, every time you need a particular map, compared to having it saved. Even on fast computers, loading QGIS can take a bit of time to load and navigate.

Conclusions.

Fermented

If all goes well, you should end up with a map that looks like this map. Your styling choices may be different, but you will still know where to put your kayak out, when going up to Round Lake in the Round Lake Wilderness, and the location of all the campsites.

I appologize if I missed any major steps. There are a lot more you can do with QGIS, but I wanted to cover the major steps, and provide hints for some of the things I found most confusing about using QGIS when I started using it regularly about a year ago now. I hope this is helpful. β€” Andy

Electricity

The second part of the series I’ve written on Truck Camping deals with the use of electricity and inverters. The first article is about the truck I currently use for camping and my future plans. A third article is coming soon.

A Must Have:
An Inverter for Household Electricity.

No truck camping set up is complete without having access to electricity. Foruntately, we live in an era with inverters, that quietly turn the 12v electricity from your truck’s electric system and battery into household electricity. They make no noise except for a low hum of the cooling fan in the inverter, that keeps the transformer from overheating. The silence is nice compared to noisy, smelly, and bulky gasoline powered generators some people use to power their camping equipment.

Inverters are now inexpensive. I am a fan of the Vector Inverters from Pepboys. I currently use a $75 dollar, 800 watt Vector inverter, which is large enough to power a small dorm-room refigerator or a microwave, although I don’t currently use either one of them. I previously had $35 dollar, 400 watt Vector inverter from spring 2004 to fall 2008, but I replaced it as I thought it was broken, even though the real problem was the electrical line from the truck battery to the inverter had broken, shorting out and blowing the in-line fuse.

Hillcross Farm Parcel now posted as State Forest

Managing Your Battery Load:
Idle Your Engine Every 2-3 Hours for 10 Minutes.

One of the reasons that I bought the 800 watt inverter over the 400 watt inverter was for the built-in Digital LED voltage meter. Few things are more critical when camping, then to ensure you have sufficent cranking battery power to start up your truck in the morning. When the battery voltage gets below 12.0 volts unladen (ie. with your electrical load unplugged), you know you should start the truck up for 10 minutes to ensure the battery charge is maintained.

I’ve discovered that idling the truck for 10 minutes every 2-3 hours of moderate load (50-200 watts draw), ensures your battery remains a strong charge for starting even in cold weather. Their should be sufficent charge at all night for camping, and powering a florescent reading lamp, alarm clock, and other small devices (20-30 watts), although one should always start the truck up 10 minutes before bed to ensure the a sufficent charge come morning. For heavier temporary loads, like running a microwave or toaster, it’s probably best to idle your engine while in use, and few a few minutes there after to ensure a strong battery charge.

The colder the weather the quicker the discharge and the more power you need for starting, however if you keep the battery meter above 11.8 volts, there should be sufficent charge. Most inverters will shut off at 11.7 volts, however, this in many cases is not sufficent power for starting a cold engine, and risks damaging a typical truck starting battery through warping the electrode plates.

We are often educated to think idling a car is wasteful and consumes large amounts of gasoline. Indeed, idling a car without purpose, or even to warm up a car (for the engine’s sake), is wasteful of gas. However, idling to charge a battery uses minimal gasoline, my Ford Ranger uses maybe a 1/4 gallon of gasoline per day camping, just to generate electricity. Modern engines have little drag at idle, and therefore consume minimal energy running the alternator and other equipment when parked.

When in doubt, idle. It’s uses minimal gas and a lot easier then having to jump start in the morning.

Tulip Beds

Have A Back Up Plan:
For a Dead Battery.

Don’t go alone without a plan in case you have a dead battery in the morning. If your traveling with buddies who also have pickup trucks, then just make sure you have jumper cables. Be aware that smaller cars will not be able to neccessarly provide the power you need to jump start your truck, especially in cold weather due to the amperage requirements.

If your traveling alone, bring another battery to jump start. I currently use a Vector “Hot-Shot” Emergency Battery Jump Starter Kit that I bought for $40. It is a stand-alone battery that you charge in advance, and in case of emergency, you hook the jumper cables built into the “hot-shot” battery to your truck’s battery, providing the extra current needed to turn over your motor.

I currently store the “hot-shot” behind the driver’s seat in the cab. It’s 12 volt trickle charger cord is currently hard wired into the line that provides power from the main truck battery to the inverter. I unplug the “hot-shot” charger cord from the inverter power line when using the inverter, to keep the inverter from robbing electricity from the “hot-shot” when camping. Otherwise, when I’m driving, the “hot-shot” is constantly getting trickle charged at the proper voltage, controlled by the truck’s built in voltage regulator in the alternator.

Previously I had a transformer cord that I used to charge the “hot-shot” at home, but it got accidently destroyed, and I figure it’s smarter to have the “hot-shot” in the truck at all times and persistantly charged.

Afternoon

Future Set Up.

When I get my next pickup truck, a full-size truck, with more room under the hood, I plan to have a second battery installed under the hood. This will be a marine or deep cycle battery, designed to provide longer battery charge for powering the inverter, providing more electricity for longer periods of time. Likewise, due to the thicker plates of a deep cycle battery, it’s unlikely to be destroyed by the use of

The deep-cycle battery will be electrically isolated from the main starting battery using a device called a battery isolator, which is a block of diodes. While the truck’s alternator will provide electricity to charge the deep cycle and starting battery, the isolator prevents the deep cycle battery from stealing electricity from the starting battery.

In addition, I’m considering getting a set of low-cost 50-watt solar panels, to provide about 10 amps of 12vdc power through a solar charger, to feed into the battery isolator when the truck is off. That said, I’m not sure if it’s cost effective compared to simply idling the truck when the battery is low.

Utica Marsh

Despite the Utica Marsh being located right off of I-790, and easily viewable from a car speeding into Utica from the North, it’s not quite as easy to get to as a pedestrian, as the former Barnes Avenue Bridge is closed off to all but pedestrians. You now have three options if you want to see the Utica Marsh up and close:

  • Park at the North Genesee Street Park and Ride / Harbor Lock Area, and follow Erie Canal Bikepath west, past NYSDOT building, past an old Utica garbage dump, over the Utica Harbor Lock, under I-790 to Utica Marsh. Roughly 1 mile.
  • Park at the end of Barnes Avenue, and hike over abandoned Barnes Avenue Bridge along abandoned junkyard, to Utica Marsh. Roughly 1.5 miles to over look, but views along western marsh when you hike in this way.
  • Kayak from somewheres on Erie Canal (e.g. somewheres around Utica, Whitesboro, Rome) to underneath most westernly I-790 bridge, pull out of water, walk like 100 ft to Marsh overlook.

 Window

I didn’t have my kayak with me this particular weekened, so I chose the Park and Ride lot. Nice hike, and you get to check out the Utica Harbor Lock — and actually cross it too. I didn’t particularly care for the gritty urban neighborhood that Barnes Avenue is located in, and didn’t feel safe parking there. So I recommend parking at the North Genesee Avenue Park and Ride Lot, which is just south of the Erie Canal, when you get off the Thruway.

You might want to include this in a kayaking trip along the beautiful Erie Canal in this area. While this is urban Utica, the reality the canal is cut into muck soils of the Mohawk River headwaters, and while much of the land is either landfilled or tiled for agriculture around it, it’s still very beautiful kayak ride with only one lock between South Utica and Rome.

This is a really good trip to make when returning from the Adirondacks in the evening — take NY 12 from NY 28 South to the Thruway. Or if your heading West to East in NY State, not a bad stop for an hour or two. Or you can head North from Madison County on NY 8. All worth the trip!

Harbor Lock Rd Dump

No Wake Sign Along Erie Canal

Powerlines Reflect Into Barge Canal

Utica Harbor Lock

Interconnect Lines Over Utica Marsh

The View Under the I-790 Interchange

I-790 Bridges

Whiteboro-Utica Exit Sign on I-790

Utica Marsh

Gray Evening at the Marsh

Plants at Utica Marsh

Utica Marsh 1

I-790 Windmill Ramp

Edge of Marsh

Railroad Bridge Over Canal

Reflections of the Canal

Pedestrian Bridge Over Canal

Setting Sun

Marshlands

Utica from the Marsh

Hills in Distance Beyond the Marsh

Darking Skies

Setting Sun

Into the Clouds

Marsh Plants

Sunball Lowers

After Dusk in Marsh

Cattails

Under the Bridge

Painted Under the Bridge

NY 49 / I-790 / NY 5 Split

Utica Harbor Lock Tower

Utica Harbor Lock Stats

The Lock

Getting Dark Out

Along the Old Dump

Harbor Lock Trail At Dusk

… I hope you enjoyed these pictures, and do check out this urban preserve.

Why I Love Automobiles So Much

As much as I despise air pollution, noise from the cars, wrecked landscapes from where they drive, I really do like cars.

Nothing speaks freedom like the open road. Nothing expresses your personality and who you are like your car. Nothing can bring you such beauty as the automobile or bring you just great experiences.

Frame 69

From the dirt road in the Adirondack Forest Preserve to an open rural highway in the Northern Tier, nothing can quite bring you their like an automobile.

My particular passion is pickup trucks. The bigger the better. The better the 4×4 system, the more room in the cab, the more room in the bed, the more lovely.

Yet, I am well aware of the problems of automobiles, and especially their uses of in urban areas. I walked along Washington Avenue Extension, as a pedestrian, and I was a aghast at their noise, pollution, and swarming motions they made.

Frame 77

Automobiles make urban areas ghastly places to be.

There are too many automobiles in the city. Off the beaten track, in Rural America, they truly are wonderful things.

Muddy Chevy Silverado

Automobiles destroy cities, but they are also the best way to get away from the cities.

Why I Want to Move to Pennsylvania

I really like the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania and it’s culture. Reminds me a lot of the New York of yesteryear. Yet, unlike New York State, where the urban culture of New York City, with its nanny-state laws and regulations, seems to have such a grip over the State, Pennsylvania seems to be a lot more wild and free. Public servants tend to be friendlier their, the public land seems to be more better maintained and open for more varied uses, and the state seems to be more open to the ideas and beliefs of rural folk like myself.

US 6 and PA 155

I like a lot of things about Pennsylvania. It has vast tracts of public land in the North-Western portion of the commonwealth, and a healthy base of agriculture in other regions. A lot of state is very rural, and the Capitol of the state is far less metropolitan then New York. While Philadelphia may be a metropolitan center of commonwealth, other areas like Pittsburgh and Scranton are far more working class and connected with the farm land around it.

…even the small things in Pennsylvania are nice.

There is minimal state gun control statues, no need to get a pistol permit and pay money to have every handgun in one’s house listed on a statewide registry. You want a gun in Pennsylvania, you pay money, and it’s yours.The right to farm is strongly upheld, and their isn’t a culture that wants to go after all hunting, fishing, ATVs, snowmobiles, wood boilers, burn barrels, coal furnaces, or natural gas drilling. Rural folk in Pennsylvania do what they need to do, without being looked down at and controlled by the urban folk.

Farm Fields Above the Canyon

I could see some day moving to Pennsylvania, owning some land out in the sticks. Doing a little hobby farming, raising some cattle and chickens and other animals, have being bonfires and burning whatever I want. Owning lots of guns, having a big pickup truck, a quad, and all of other toys of the good rural life. Taxes are lower in Pennsylvania. A culture that isn’t so controlling of everything.

PA 155 Frame 3

The Freedom of Pennsylvania. A state I really like.

My Idea of the Perfect Day

There is a lot of talk these days about the trendy resorts where everything is provided for you. The kind of place where they offer structure for your complete day, including defined recreation areas and supervision. That couldn’t be farther from what I would view the perfect day. I hate structure, I hate acting like an adult, I hate following schedules–especially on vacation.

I’d rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.
— Steve McQueen

  1. Have no firm schedule or plans, just limited by the rhythms of nature and daylight.
  2. Drive somewheres up in the woods where I could hike up a fairly remote mountain, starting before most people are even awake.
  3. Arrive up to the top of the mountain, peer down into the valleys below.

East

  1. Spend some time looking down into the wilderness or farmland below.
  2. Take lots of pictures for my scrapbook to look back at.
  3. Descend the mountain and enjoy the fresh air of the afternoon.

Pond Lillies on the Marsh and Mush

  1. Paddle around on a lake or flatwater stream in my kayak for a couple of hours into the evening, while sipping a beer and enjoying the wilderness around.
  2. Snaps some pictures, maybe even toss a fishing line over and do some fishing.
  3. When I get too hot, hop out of the kayak and go for a swim for a while.

Camping Down By Otter Brook

  1. Find a roadside campsites along the way, somewhere far away from anybody else, where I won’t be bothered by anyone else or noise of other groups.
  2. Park my truck with it’s fiberglass cap/shell, unload my gear.
  3. Set up my lights, Christmas lights and other appliances.
  4. Build a campfire and cook some dinner on it.

Reading in the Rain

  1. Enjoy the flickering fire, listen to some music as the night goes by.
  2. Drink some beer, look up at the stars.
  3. Read a book, stay up as late as I want, listen to music as loud as I want to.

… my perfect day is not expensive or formalized,
it’s just wild and free.