Mountains

Eminence State Forest History

From the Eminence State Forest Unit Management Plan

Early settlers were subsistent farmers, relying on the land for the majority of their needs. Evidence of the difficulties associated with clearing the fields can still be seen. The ubiquitous stone walls were built from stones laboriously cleared from fields to make them tillable. Dairy farming was an important activity for the early farmers, with excess milk being shipped to cities in the form of butter. Early crops no longer grown in this area included wheat, tobacco and hops.In 1875, Schoharie County was the fourth largest producer of hops in the State. Hops were said to exhaust soil rapidly and by the late 1800’s, hop production was in rapid decline.

 Butterfly

Forests not cleared for farmland were used for many purposes. Potash and charcoal production were two early farm industries that made use of hardwood forests. Potash was used locally and also shipped to Europe. Charcoal was used in blacksmith shops, tin shops and iron foundries located in every town.

Hemlock was cut for its bark. Tannin extracted from the bark was used in the leather tanning industry. In 1840, there were l4 tanneries in the county. Large tanneries in Gilboa were obtaining bark from the area of the Eminence Management Unit. In addition to its use in the local tanneries, large quantities of tannin were shipped to Europe.

Rossman Fly Road

Other wood based industries included sawmills, shingle mills, cooper shops, wood tool factories and a paper mill. There were mills of various types on Betty Brook, West Kill, Panther Creek, Doney Hollow Creek, Mill Creek, and their tributaries. Portions of these streams are located on the Eminence Management Unit. Early settlers, up to the late l800’s, could not own the land they worked.

This “Patroon” system probably resulted in heavy cutting of the forests because the renters had little interest in the future of their lands. With the widespread cutting taking place, probably every acre of the present day Eminence Management Unit had been cut by the late 1800’s.

The Campsite

Fish and wildlife populations were also decimated during this period. The wild turkey, beaver,black bear, wolf, eagle, and white-tail deer were all extirpated from Schoharie County in the 19th and early 20th century. Stream habitat for native trout and other fish was also damaged by pollution from industry and agriculture. Fish and game laws which established seasons and size limits were non-existent for most of the 19th century.

From the very beginning, these were only marginal farms. By the mid 1800’s, the poor soils of some of these hill top farms had been exhausted, and farms were being abandoned. By l930, large tracts of farmland had been abandoned.In 1931, under the State Reforestation Law, the State began acquisition of some of these abandoned farmlands. Most of these early purchases were for about $4.00 per acre and by l940, land acquisition in the Eminence Management Unit essentially ended.

Rough Lower Section of Burnt Hill Road

In the Spring of l93l, State crews began planting tree seedlings on the open land. A Civilian Conservation Corps camp was established in 1934 at Boucks Falls and the CCC’s joined State Forest crews planting trees. To date, over 6 million trees have been planted on the Eminence Management Unit. Other early projects included timber stand improvement, stream improvement and protection,construction of truck roads, seed collection for the State tree nursery, forest insect and disease control projects and construction of fencing between State and private lands.

Fire Hazard Reduction (FHR) was another project. FHR included construction of water holes, clearing roadsides of slash, building fire breaks around newly established plantations and slash reduction in heavily cut over natural stands.When the State acquired these lands, the previous owners usually reserved cutting rights. They had up to two years to cut any trees down to a six inch stump diameter. As a result of this logging, and other cutting that took place in the decade before the State acquired the land, there was little timber of any value present. Broken and deformed trees were all that was left in the majority of the forested areas.

Marshy Edge of Duck Pond

There were few sales of forest products until the mid 1950’s because of the poor condition of natural forests and the small size of the planted trees. Significant sales did not begin until the 1970’s. To date, about 2 1/2 million board feet of saw timber, 22,000 cords of firewood and 67,000 cords of pulpwood have been sold for a total revenue to the State of over one million dollars. About two-thirds of this revenue came from the plantations which comprise about one-third of the Eminence Management Unit. In the mid 1980’s, harvesting and replanting of mature red pine stands was begun.

The Department of Correction Youth Camp was constructed around 1960 on State lands in the Town of Fulton near Summit. This recently became the Summit Shock Incarceration Camp. Projects accomplished by inmates on State Forests include forest road maintenance, wildlife habitat improvement, stream improvement, recreational trail construction and maintenance, timber stand improvement, tree planting and cone collection for the State tree nursery.Land acquisitions in the 1960’s through the 1980’s improved access to the Eminence Management Unit, enhanced recreational opportunities, provided additional protection for the streams on the unit and consolidated the unit with the acquisition of interior parcels. Six of the State Forests on this unit now contain over 12,000 acres of contiguous public ownership. This large block of public land will become even more valuable in the future, considering recent trends toward subdividing adjacent private lands.

Mallet Pond

Many of the wildlife species that were once extirpated have returned to the area. Their recovery can be attributed to the restoration of natural habitat and the enforcement of hunting and fishing regulations. Now that fish and game are once again abundant, the state lands have become very popular areas for fishing and hunting pursuits.

What God Sees When He Looks Down at New York

Note on the Re-run on May 14th: This continues to be one of my favorites Fodder essays to take a look at. New York State is a beautiful place! — Andy

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Adirondack Mountains.

Binghamton and
Confluence of Chenango and Susquehanna Rivers.

Catskill Mountains.

Cortland.

Finger Lakes.

Hudson Highlands.

New York City.

Orange County’s Black Dirt Country.

Western Catskills and
Country Near Delhi.

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Another Place I Want to Go Back To

One of the places I really want to visit this next summer is T-Lake Falls in the West Canada Creek Wilderness. As a Boy Scout in 1998, I went up there for a week, and we made camp at a campsite about a 1/4 mile below the water falls. I have good memories of climbing up the last 10 feet of the waterfall, and sliding down it into the pool below. The black flies were awful but experience was great.

There is no marked trail back there, although most of the route follows old roads and unofficially marked herd paths. I vaguely remember parts of the route, and I have been studying the map and description from Barbara McMartins’ Discover the West Central Adirondacks. Much to my memory it’s about 6 miles each way, although being relatively flat, should be hikable in about 3 hours each way. It can be done in a long day.

Unlike as a Boy Scout I probably will not overnight out there. I will probably get up early one morning, drive up there, hike in, stop at the falls, grab some pictures and sit back for some memories. Then I will hike back to Mountain Pond Road and do some roadside camping, in one of the six campsites. I much prefer the comforts of roadside camping, and not carrying in gear all that way. While the Boy Scout trip was fun, the gear sure was heavy for that distance hike.

It should be fun. They say one can not go back to a place in time, but somehow revisiting the memories of yesteryear and my younger self should be well worth it.

March vs April

Last year, I happened to hike Severance Hill above Schroon Lake on March 7th, and also on April 11th. Being roughly one month apart, I figured it would be an interesting study in how the seasons change between these months.

Paradox Lake, March.

 Paradox Lake

Paradox Lake, April.

 Paradox Lake

Southern Schroon Lake, March.

Mountains

Southern Schroon Lake, April.

 Southern Schroon Lake

Deep Bay, March.

Ice Fishing on Schroon Lake

Steep Bay, April.

Steep Bay

Past and Present Management Of Moose River Plains

Today’s fodder was is an excerpt from “Moose River Plains Wild Forest Revised Draft Unit Management Plan/Draft Generic Environmental Impact Statement ‐ July 2010”, Appendix III, a NYS Department of Conservation Document that is in the public domain. As the DEC will probably eventually remove this from the internet, and because it is only in PDF I have decided to share it in the entirity in this blog post.

I have added some pictures I’ve taken over the years at Moose River Plains. I hope you find this interesting and helpful. – Andy

Past and Present Management Of Moose River Plains.
As Written By NYSDEC, Revised Draft Unit Management Plan

The State acquired an original tract of 9,000 acres in the heart of what is now the MRPWF before 1900. In 1948 the Conservation Department issued a permit allowing Gould Paper Company to use an existing wagon road known as the Kenwell Road to haul timber across State lands and to maintain a gate at the end of the road near Limekiln Lake to prevent public access. The Department acquired 15,710 acres surrounding Limekiln Lake from Gould in 1960, then another Gould parcel encompassing Lost Ponds and containing approximately 1,803 acres in 1962. An individual owner sold the State a parcel of 356 acres including Beaver Lake in 1963. The majority of what is now the MRPWF and the northern part of the West Canada Lake Wilderness was added to the Forest Preserve in 1963 when Gould Paper Company sold the State a tract of 50,970 acres stretching from Horn Lake on the west to Manbury Mountain on the east. Major subsequent additions included 602 acres surrounding Wakely Dam and the north end of Cedar River Flow from Finch, Pruyn and Company in 1964 and two large parcels acquired from International Paper Company: the 1,120‐acre Cellar Mountain parcel in 1986 and a tract of 9,925 acres south of Wakely Mountain in 1988. The larger parcel was acquired subject to a 1987 easement conveyed by IP to Hamilton County for the maintenance of the four miles of Cedar River Road which crossed the parcel. Appendix 25 contains an acquisition map.

A small parcel was acquired in 1981 along Route 28. This acquisition included access to the shore of Fourth Lake. However, there is no potential to develop any water access at this location. Appendix 15 contains a deed and sketch map for this parcel.

Moose River Plains Overview

After this major acquisition, the Department took an active approach to the management of the area then referred to as the Moose River Recreation Area, a name which reflected the intent behind the purchase. From the beginning, the Department pursued the development of an extensive road system to provide public access to the remote interior for hunting, trapping, fishing and camping. An early Department report indicated that there were about 178 miles of primary gravel roads and an equal extent of secondary and winter roads throughout the former Gould lands. However none of the roads was suitable for public motor vehicle use without significant improvement. Minutes to a meeting of Department staff on December 9, 1963 included an estimated cost of $25,000 for the annual maintenance of 50 miles of roads and bridges. Starting in 1964, Division of Fish and Wildlife staff used heavy equipment to improve roads initially identified for public use. When the area first was opened to the public on October 23, 1964, the road connecting the Limekiln and Cedar River entrances had just been cleared by bulldozer, but remained difficult to traverse. In addition to the LLCR Road, the Rock Dam Road, Otter Brook Road and Sly Pond Loop were open to public use by permit for a total of about 30 miles. Fifty‐six parking areas were established along the road system. At the entrance gates, cars were assigned parking areas and travel was allowed only to and from those areas. The public were four‐wheel drive vehicles or tire chains. Pickups with slip‐on campers were permitted from the start, but because the roads were not yet suitable, trailers were not permitted.

Speed Limit 15 MPH

In a road plan adopted in 1965, roads to be designated were divided into three categories. Twenty‐two miles would be first priority roads, open to all traffic; 30.5 miles would be second priority roads open only to fourwheel drive vehicles; and 7.5 miles would be administrative roads restricted to use by Department staff for crossing private property. In the first years after the area was opened to the public, access remained difficult because of the effects of weather on road conditions. In the summer of 1965, work needed to make the roads passable delayed opening until July 1. In order to minimize fire danger and facilitate the disposal of trash, the public was allowed to camp only in areas adjacent to the roads and for a maximum of 3 days. Trash receptacles eventually were provided at most campsites and Department staff collected trash twice a week through the 1970s. The trash was deposited at a dump site south of the LLCR Road east of Helldiver Pond.

Helldiver Pond in Evening

The road crew worked steadily year by year to improve the roads with the intention of ultimately allowing them to be traveled safely by cars. After the extensive logging by Gould, especially after the 1950 Blowdown, much of the area was occupied by thick low vegetation, the tops of harvested and wind‐thrown trees. Foot travel was difficult. To allow hunters to more easily travel through more remote areas in search of game, Fish and Wildlife staff used a bulldozer to clear and extend logging roads and skid trails to serve as foot trails, starting in the late 1960s. Trails cleared in this way include routes to Mitchell Ponds, Bear Pond, Lost Ponds, Cellar Pond, Beaver Lake, Sly Pond and Squaw Lake, as well as those along Benedict Creek and Butter Brook. A number of routes cleared at that time are now within the West Canada Lake Wilderness, including the trails to Horn Lake and Falls Pond. Many of the cleared routes extended beyond the trails currently marked and maintained. A map prepared by Jack Harnish, a member of the crew that did the trail clearing work, is on file with the Department.

Direction Sign at The Big T Junction

The minutes of the December 9, 1963 Department staff meeting mentioned above included in the list of recommendations for the operation of the area that the Department should establish several small camping areas to include table, fireplace and latrine throughout the area adjacent to the roads where parties can park and camp. By 1965 the Department began constructing campsites and installing fireplaces, picnic tables and privies, which were built in a field just west of the Cedar River entrance. At each suitable location along the road system, a bulldozer was used to make a short access driveway and level an area where a car or pickup truck could park and camp. A number of campsites were created at former log landings. Many of the areas originally intended as roadside parking areas later were converted to campsites. Campsite construction was completed by the late 1960s.

Campsite 55

Because of the importance of the Plains as a deer wintering area, the Departments game management staff began studying the area in 1931. Hunting and fishing advocates such as the Adirondack Conservation Council supported the acquisition of the Plains and the development of its roads, trails and campsites for hunting and fishing access. In 1965 and 1966 with federal Pittman‐Robertson Act funding, 30 log landings were graded for hunter parking access and 30,000 trees were planted in the Plains area as an experiment intended to provide winter deer shelter.

Tall Pines in the Plains

In 1965 housing was constructed for the Limekiln and Cedar River gatekeepers. The possibility of a use fee was discussed, but no fee was charged during the early years. During the 1976 season the Department charged a fee of $1.50 or $2.00 per car. A subsequent assessment determined that most of the revenue generated by the fee was offset by the costs of staffing and administration. The fee was discontinued the following year.

Entrance to Moose River Plains

Work to clear hunter access trails by bulldozer continued for a few years. However, after repeated incidents of public motor vehicle travel on these trails, 16 barriers were installed in 1970, and motor vehicles no longer were used to maintain the trails. Also in 1970, the original road plan was changed to close 22.5 miles of the original III. Management and Policy Moose River Plains Wild Forest Revised Draft Unit Management Plan/Draft Generic Environmental Impact Statement ‐ July 2010 67 30.5 miles of secondary roads to the public and retain them as administrative roads. The other 8 miles, consisting of the beginning of the Otter Brook truck trail and the road to the Indian River, were upgraded to primary roads and the gate at the Otter Brook bridge was removed.

Otter Brook Bridge is Closed

As work progressed over the years and the condition of the road system improved, the Department relaxed restrictions on the types of vehicles the public could drive. In the late 1960s the Department decided to allow motorhomes up to 22 feet long to travel the roads through big game hunting season, as long as they had tire chains. It was thought that they were less likely to get stuck than vehicles towing camping trailers, which the Department continued to prohibit. However, pressure to allow trailers began early and continued to grow. After Department staff conducted an assessment of the roads and determined that they had been sufficiently improved, they decided to allow trailers beginning around 1980.

For several years after the Department first erected wood signs in the MRPWF, they were repeatedly damaged by black bears. To prevent further destruction, metal signs were installed in 1975.

6.5 Miles to Lost Pond

A detailed Department map prepared in 1977 shows 222 campsite and parking area locations along the road system. The map provides an inventory of the structures at each site, showing the prevalence of fireplaces, picnic tables and privies at the time. Twenty sites were closed in 1980 after the reclassification of the southwestern portion of the area to wilderness, when the road to the Indian River was gated at Indian Lake. The campsites were not given numbers on the ground until the 1980s. A number of original sites that had fallen into disuse were bypassed when the numbers were assigned, so that in 2008 there are 170 numbered sites. In 2006 sites 7, 34, 66, 73, 90, 119a, 130 , and site 1 at Cedar River Flow were modified and designated as accessible sites.

In recent years, maintenance activities have focused on keeping the road system in passable condition, replacing inadequate culverts and trail maintenance. In 2001, four gravel pits were reclaimed and replanted.

Warning! Road Washed Out

In 1996 an engineering evaluation was completed for the public motor vehicle roads in the unit. The report focused on 8 major and 12 minor culvert problem areas and made recommendations for replacing existing culverts with new structures of sufficient capacity to handle a design storm of 100‐year occurrence probability with a snowmelt allowance. Between 2000 and 2005, 11 of the 12 minor sites, with the exception of site 10B, were addressed and site 5A of the major sites is the only one complete. The report and an updated status can be found in Appendix 22.

Straight Thru the Plains

In 1974, jurisdiction over approximately one acre of State land was transferred from the Hudson River‐Black River Regulating District to the Department for use as a canoe access site on Sixth Lake. In 1986, the Department transferred jurisdiction of 6.41 acres of State land along Sagamore Road to DOT. This parcel encompasses an old sand pit and was transferred so that DOT could relocate their maintenance facility from an area immediately adjacent to State Route 28 to a more screened location. DEC reserved the right to use gravel from this site, as long as it did not interfere with the DOT facility. Currently DOT does not use the site, but may use it at some time in the future.

Moose River Plains Overview

When the Moose River Recreation Area was first opened to the public, use levels were relatively high. During big game hunting season in 1964, 2,021 vehicles with 5,764 passengers signed in. Though the area originally was purchased and developed for use by hunters, trappers and anglers, the first 10‐day report filed after the 1965 opening on July 1 indicated that 75 percent of visitors were campers and sight‐seers. In 1966, 7,809 people signed in as anglers and 23,408 camper‐days were recorded during big game hunting season, about 6,000 of which were recorded for campsites beyond the Otter Brook bridge. Big game hunters were very successful in the early years, harvesting 373 deer and 15 bear in 1966 and a high of 404 deer in 1968. Deer harvest levels declined sharply after 1969, with 77 harvested in 1970 and 11 in 1971. Since the 1970s the number of deer taken by hunters has increased and in recent years harvest numbers have nearly returned to the levels recorded in the 1960s. The MRPWF remains popular with hunters, trappers and anglers.

Thunderstorm Coming to the Plains

Early management included the adoption of a number of regulations in 1972. These regulations, which still apply to public use of the area, require visitors to register at the Cedar River and Limekiln entrances, require the use of tire chains after October 1 except on 4‐wheel drive vehicles, prohibit snowmobile operation during the big game hunting season and prohibit the use of motorcycles and motorized bicycles. Current conditions may warrant the elimination of the registration requirement and the prohibition against motorcycle use.

Begin One Way, End One Way

Some struck me about these two signs along a short section of a one-way road at Colton Point State Park. They seemed to mean so much more then just their simple meaning for traffic, but something about life we all live.

Begin One Way

We all begin one way, set off to find our way through the wilderness of life, with little more then a rough sketch where want to end up.

Towpath

We wander through the wilderness, seeking that destination that we know want to reach, but even when the road is straight and narrow, it’s not always apparent on where will eventually end up.

Binoculars

We sometimes stop to check our way. We get out our binoculars and try to look to see if our destination is in site. It’s not always clear.

Untitled [Expires November 23 2024]

We glance off into wilderness the vista.

Walking Along Cedar River Road

As we kick some dirt up along the road.

Dead End: Last Turn Around

Trying to avoid the dead ends that seem to come upon as every few minutes.

Bench

We stop for a minute on a park bench.

River Flows

And peer down into the canyon as a changed indivdual.

And End One Way

And eventually we end one way. Was it the same way we started? No! I really doubt that. We have changed. We may have ended one way, but we ended a different way then we started.

Walking Across Wakley Dam on a Full Moon

One thing that everybody should experience at least once in their lifetime, is to walk across Wakley Dam at a Full Moon. Wakley Dam, located at the Cedar River Flow, crosses the river and provides access to 5 of the primative campsites at Cedar River Flow portion of Moose River Plains.

Moonlight on Cedar River Flow

When you across the moonlit lake, across the lake towards Little Moose Mountain in the distance, and towards Sturges Hills, you’ll take in a deep breath, as you try to comphrend what moonlit beauty you are looking at. You’ll look up towards the sky, with millions of stars, uncompromised by distance city lights. There are no cities nearby, indeed, the nearest town is the Hamlet of Indian Lake, 12 miles away on a rough dirt road.

Campfire Across the Lake

… Cedar River Flow is amazing in the day time.
It’s even more amazing at night …