Big Red

Show Only ...
Maps - Photos - Videos

July 3, 2018 11:53 am Update

Corrosion once again eat the truck cap’s ground wire off the frame’s terminal connector this morning. I noticed voltage drop in the truck cap over the weekend (suggesting resistance in a wire) and this morning suddenly I discovered that I had lost all power back to the cap.πŸ”‹

Second time this has happened. Also happened in April 2018 (I installed this wire in April 2017).⚑️ I thought it was a salt issue, but happening in the summer, I think wire is copper-coated aluminum and the aluminum is oxidizing from water plus electricity (and maybe the aluminum and copper being dissimilar metals.)

Annoying. I am thinking i am going to have to replace the wire with pure copper, and figure out how to heat shrink it, when I am not near the gas tank.πŸ”₯ The question being how to fish the wire connector through the hole in the truck bed, although I have ideas — maybe run excess wire through the bed and use that wire to heat the shrink wrap not near the gas tank.

The Challenges I Overcame Going Solar on My Truck

For many years, I avoided mounting the solar panel on the roof of my truck. Here’s why:

  • Many places I camp are shaded, so the panel will not put out much current.
  • At a flat angle the panel is less efficient then angled towards the sun
  • I didn’t want to drill holes in the roof of my truck cap
  • I didn’t have a good way to get power from the truck cap roof to the inside of the cab of my truck.

If “fixed” those problems by:

  • Re-thinking how I’m using the panel. I no longer look at it as for it’s peak efficiency but for the fact that it will be on my truck wherever I go, and mid-day parked in a lot somewhere while I’m hiking or kayaking, it will be charging. Maybe i won’t get a lot of charge while at camp, but if my battery is back up to 100% by the time I go back to camp — even after just a short drive — I will have ample power for night.
  • Solar is “slow” power, it’s charges things over time. Even I am not peak efficiency, if I’m parked in a bright and sunny parking lot it will recharge battery by the time I’m back at the truck. My relatively small deep cycle battery (100 Ah) with my limited power consumption (generally under 2 amp 12 VDC) works well with the fairly large 100 watt panel.
  • I built a cross bar rack and got the pins that allow me to bolt the panel to the Yakima rack. It’s removable for maintenance and didn’t involve any drilling into the cap, potentially creating leaks.
  • I found a grommet in the floor boards of the truck that was made of plastic that was easy enough to drill through.

May 20, 2018 5:52 pm Update

Solar power is up and running on my truck’s camper shell. Accessory battery is charging at 14.5 volts all while the engine is shut off. Probably the battery will be fully charged soon and the solar controller will just be floating the charge. Everything is nice and tight, no rattles while driving, looks fairly neat. I think I did a nice job. Me happy.