I was annoyed that when I got my truck back from having the bedliner applied they did not mask over the bed bolts, especially the bolts around where a potential gooseneck hitch would be installed. I had asked if they remove or mask the hardware before spraying. They said they did but that doesn’t apparently include bed bolts. I found their answer to be very misleading. Apparently they do spray over the bed bolts. Spraying over the bed bolts protects them from corrosion and damage from dropping loads over them like concrete or whatever you are hauling in the bed. It turns out the factory spray in bedliner and most dealer installed bedliners also cover the bed bolts.
While I’m installing a camper shell in a few weeks, and have no plans for a gooseneck hitch on a short bed truck, I don’t know what the future holds and I hate having my options limited. Could some day I get into cattle or heavy camper trailer and want a gooseneck even on a short bed with the 6.8 gasser and 3.73 gears? What happens if the fuel pump goes bad and they need to remove the bed? What to do after a collision or rust damage should frame work be required? It t turns out this is a common issue and it’s not a big deal to remove the bedliner from the bolts – and in most cases not particularly time intensive and won’t damage the bedliner. Just some heat from a heat gun, and exacto knife, a mallet and the bolt can be cleaned up and pulled using a torque driver without damaging the bolt or bedliner in most cases.
Still while I wish the shop was more transparent and less sleazy about their plans repairs or adding a gooseneck to the truck I the future is not a big deal despite the bedliner.
To remove bedliner sprayed over bed bolts, the most effective method is to heat the coating to soften it, then use a sharp blade to score around the bolt head before hammering the socket bit into the bolt’s grooves. This ensures the tool seats deeply enough to prevent stripping the head.
Step-by-Step Removal Process
Heat the Bolt Area: Use a heat gun or high-powered hair dryer on the bolt head until the liner material becomes soft or starts to bubble slightly.
Score the Perimeter: Use a utility knife or sharp razor to cut a clean circle through the liner around the base of the bolt head. This prevents the liner from tearing or peeling away from the rest of the bed when you turn the bolt.
Clear the Recess: If the bolt has a Torx or Hex head, use a pick or a small screwdriver to scrape out the liner material from the internal star or hexagon shape.
Seat the Tool: Place your socket bit (typically a T40, T50, or T55 depending on the truck) into the hole and tap it firmly with a hammer. This forces the bit past any remaining residue and ensures a tight grip.
Unscrew Carefully: Use a breaker bar or an impact driver to slowly back the bolt out. Avoid high-speed spinning initially to prevent stripping the softened bolt head.
Alternative Methods for Stubborn Bolts
Chemical Stripper: Apply a citrus-based stripper (like Citristrip) specifically to the bolt heads. Cover with plastic wrap for 24 hours to dissolve the bond before scraping.
Wire Wheel: If the liner is particularly brittle, use a wire wheel attachment on a drill to grind the coating off the top and sides of the bolt head.
Soldering Iron: For deep Torx recesses, a soldering iron can be used to melt the liner inside the “star” without damaging the surrounding bed area.
Pro Tips
Clean the Threads: Once the bolts are out, soak them in paint thinner or isopropyl alcohol overnight to remove the stuck liner.
Prevent Rust: If the removal process scratches the metal bed, touch up the area with a small amount of automotive paint or matching bedliner before reinstalling the bolts.
