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The Final Day at Moose River Plains

I thought my Moose River Trip was a pretty good one, even if I ran into some minor issues along the way.

It was a pretty foggy start to my morning when I first woke up with the fog picking up right before eight AM then burning off a little while after the sun rose. While Friday and Saturday nights were fairly chilly the same could not be said about last night. Yesterday was pretty nice paddling along the Cedar River Flow then up on Cedar River to Carry Lean-To, which as the name suggests is close to the end of the navigable waters on the river. Maybe you can “carry” and get to another section of deep enough water but I have my doubts. The leaves along the flow were quite colorful, although the mountains surrounding the flow where already past peak and starting to turn quite brown and gray, with only some deep reds from the maples and greens from the evergreens remaining. It seems ironic that Moose River Plains is already looking like late fall, with the weather still in the 80s. Cool weather, some with a frost in early September made the leaves fall on many of the trees, despite the big warm up of this weekend.

While I don’t know how truly warm it got up here on Sunday — September 24th I should note — my phone said it was 87 degrees by mid afternoon, and the water in the Cedar River wasn’t super cold. I went swimming every day I was up here. The weather this weekend was warmer then it was when I camped up here over the Independence Day Weeekend. So be it.

I got lost in the muck and vegetation looking for the Cedar River, which if your inexperienced paddling or been a while since the last time on the Cedar River Flow can be quite difficult to find. Fortunately I saw a passing kayaker and he gave me verbal advice on how to find the river. I had a topographic map on my phone but it’s only of limited use, because topographic maps are old, and do not reflect the lower lake level since the DEC put in the modern dam in 1969.

There was a dreaded beaver dam on the Cedar River, only a short distance from the entrance from the flow. I am really quite surprised a beaver dam survived the boats crossing the area and the trappers seeking beaver pelts. I guess beaver pelts haven’t been fetching the price they once did, and with less human pressures, beavers are able to build an dam up whatever they want these days.

Coming back over the Beaver Dam the second time, I managed to flip my kayak getting back into it. My smartphone stayed plenty dry in it’s protective bag, but my camera and tackle box got soaked. Well, only briefly, but my camera is drying out and I assume in a day or two it will be fine to power back up again. So for the last day of my trip, I am limited to smartphone pictures.

I haven’t paddled the Cedar River Flow in a while because I have been spending more time up in the western end of Moose River Plains, and it’s a big haul back there. At 15 MPH speed limit, it takes almost an hour. From Wakely Dam to Carry Lean-to, it’s an hour and a half paddle, assuming you find the entrance to the river with ease and don’t stop for an hour for lunch, personal business on the smartphone, and of course updating social media. I know, hah. But there is good AT&T GSM access from the upper end of Cedar River Flow, especially near Campsite 6. That’s not as common in much of the Moose River Recreation Area.

Driving to the Cedar River Flow from the camping area in the western part of the Moose River Plains near Helldiver is an hour long proposition, which is why I haven’t spent much time there lately. I’ve also been spending more time exploring things around Inlet, in part because I like being able to check my phone to see if any family or work things come on up. I also get a bit tired of all those bumpy miles of 15 MPH road, especially now that I know Cedar River – Limekiln Lake Road like the back of my hand.

I cooked up some beef, cheese and chilies, and had some more burritos with Corona beer. After a few beers, with the hot sun all day, the five hours of paddling, I watched the fire for a bit then I retired for the night. I was probably in bed by nine. Which seems silly, as it was it was a pleasant evening with billions of stars above and temperatures in the 60s, but I felt like I needed toothpicks to keep my eyes open. I’ve also been trying to get more sleep these days.

In the past few years, I’ve camped up at Moose River Plains but it’s been at least two years since I camped in the plains formal — the area where the campsites are sand, the canopies are open and the surrounding area is quite swampy. The reason for not camping up here is quite simple — the bugs can be quite horrific during the spring and early summer — while the surrounding wooded sites tend to be bug free or have much fewer mosquitoes. It can be like night or day, especially in black fly season.

That said the “plains” campsites just are a special place to camp at with the big starry skies above in the remote country. I really enjoyed campsite 80, and should try to make sure to camp up here more often.

Broke camp before ten, walked down to the Moose River. Cooked up biscuits in the camp oven, took down the flags, put away the gear, hung out the wet stuff to dry, worked on the blog post, and once the fog burnt off it was a beautiful but rapidly warming morning as the leaves continued to fall.

First tried my hand at fishing the Moose River from the path behind my campsite, then I drove to the bridge over the Moose River and fished under there. Caught nothing. Hiked back from the Squaw Lake parking area first to Muskrat Pond and then to Indian Lake, that is the one in the southwestern most part of Moose River Plains. Nice hike, although at this point some of the colors are already done. Other places, less color. It varies a lot with elevation. But regardless the weather on this extended weekend has been amazing.

I tell you there aren’t many 80 degree days during the last week of September in the Adirondacks. It was nice sitting down by the lake with a fishing pole, even if I only caught a few bullheads. No mosquitoes which was nice too. And I almost slipped and fell in the lake which honestly today wouldn’t have been the worse thing. They’ve removed most of the signs and tables from the old campsites along the closed portion of Indian Lake Road, even if it’s in better condition than the open portion. The open portion of Indian Lake Road has been beat to shit by trucks and cars due to it being so wet and rainy this summer. Good colors along the road though. Definitely a beautiful day, not too humid with a lot of fair weather clouds.

Apparently I don’t have cell service up at Indian Lake or Muskrat Pond with my GSM phone like my old CDMA model. That’s fine but I do like to check in with the world from time to time. Oh well, by the time you read this I will be back in cellphone range.

I was looking at the map and thinking I have never hiked back to the Indian River. IΒ didn’t have time today but I should add that to my list for next summer. Also hiking back to Cellar Pond by Cellar Monument now that the DEC has a big sign announcing the trail and they’ve blocked off the old dirt track used by hunters to drive down that way. I always go to the same places at Moose River Plains, I should explore new places.

After visiting Muskrat Pond, Indian Lake, and Squaw Lake I made it back to my truck closer to four PM then three. And I was at the Inlet gate around five, when I stopped and put the front and back ropes back on the kayak, and headed back via Old Forge.I didn’t feel like driving all the way back through Moose River Plains to Indian Lake, and heck, I haven’t been back via NY 28 in a long time.

Driving back through Inlet and Old Forge was really quiet. It was nice to be on the nice smooth black top, after driving over Indian Lake Road, the little used and little maintained section between the Falls Pond and Squaw Lake Trailhead was particularly rough. The sound of windshield washer fluid hitting the kayak on NY 28 made me pull over, but it was just that noise, the kayak was riding fine. But in general it seemed like all of the roads at Moose River Plains were rougher then usual after such a wet summer, with some heavy rains eroding away the roads and vehicles giving the road a good pounding in spots.Β Β I thought there was a McDonalds in Old Forge where I could get a milk shake, but I couldn’t find it.

NY 28 except for the small towns is really a good road, if not boring. The DOT has straightened and improved much of the road except through the small towns. Without summer vacationer traffic and being a weekday, there was very little traffic. I always like that section of NY 28 when it meets up with NY 12 south of Alder Creek, and becomes a four lane, but I think people always seem to speed on it and there are always cops watching for speeders. But the scenery is nice along this section of the road, looking down at the Mohawk Valley and the rough farm country, and swamp land of the greater Remsen area. I always find the rocky, rough farms cut into the mountains to be much more interesting to look at then the lush, more heavily capitalized and better maintained farms of the lush alluvial valleys you see in some parts of the state. The Tug Hill, in it’s upper elevations is a rough country, with lots of snow, and very hardy people. A big black F-350 Harvey Davidson edition passed by with Agriculture plates, and I had to think, “he must do some good shit, “no pun intended”.

Drove down to Poland and Middleville via NY 28. I like this part of NY 28 even if the villages are pokey, just because it’s pretty along the East Canada Creek. I should try my hand trout fishing there one spring — I just got to find a good place to camp up that way — it’s a bit of a trip for a day trip from Albany in my opinion. Middleville is quite the quaint little town, reminding me of what America used to be like.

Then it was down to NY 169 to Little Falls from Herkimer. I like this section of road, even though it’s hilly, because it’s quite beautiful. I like seeing the farms and valleys, and a landscape that works but isn’t that perfect, and still somewhat rough. Drove through Little Falls, a nice little but struggling city that has much potential. Yeah, I was there last weekemd at Moss Island, then onwards toward the Thruway. Stopped at Fink Basin Road to tighten the kayak on the roof of my truck.

Right before getting on the Thruway, I decided to shun pike some more, and take NY 5S from the Little Falls exit to Canjahoharie. I don’t like having to drive through Fort Plain and then Canjahoharie before getting onto he Thruway, but so be it. I do like that section of NY 5S high above the valley though. Some farms in the valleys haven’t cut silage yet due to the high temperatures (more growing seasons, more yields) and lack of frost.

When I got to Fort Plain I almost stopped at the Red Dragon Chinese place. I like Chinese and they tend to be inexpensive. People always think small town Chinese places are bad, but actually some can be pretty good, especially if families are trying to make a living in a place with few other options. I liked the Chinese I got in Canastota when I was working there, but then again, I got awful tasting Chinese food in North Syracuse. I don’t know, I passed as it was getting dark and I wanted to get home.

When I got on the Thruway at Canjahoharie it was getting pretty dark. My eyes were watering up and I ended up stopping at the rest area outside of Amsterdam. Took a piss and washed my hands good — nice bathrooms — then went into my truck and cleaned off my contacts and reinstered them. That made the rest of the drive easier.

Got home around 8 PM and things unpacked, well mostly so, before the heat started to get to me. Then I took a shower, and finished up this blog post. And here we are now.

My current smartphone isn’t as good at picking up distant radio channels and I didn’t play with it much so I missed hearing the news during my extended weekend trip at Moose River Plains. I doubt I missed much, most of the things in the news don’t effect me much. I’m sure my political Facebook friends will post plenty of memes to fill me in on what I’ve been missing.

Past and Present Management Of Moose River Plains

Today’s fodder was is an excerpt from “Moose River Plains Wild Forest Revised Draft Unit Management Plan/Draft Generic Environmental Impact Statement ‐ July 2010”, Appendix III, a NYS Department of Conservation Document that is in the public domain. As the DEC will probably eventually remove this from the internet, and because it is only in PDF I have decided to share it in the entirity in this blog post.

I have added some pictures I’ve taken over the years at Moose River Plains. I hope you find this interesting and helpful. – Andy

Past and Present Management Of Moose River Plains.
As Written By NYSDEC, Revised Draft Unit Management Plan

The State acquired an original tract of 9,000 acres in the heart of what is now the MRPWF before 1900. In 1948 the Conservation Department issued a permit allowing Gould Paper Company to use an existing wagon road known as the Kenwell Road to haul timber across State lands and to maintain a gate at the end of the road near Limekiln Lake to prevent public access. The Department acquired 15,710 acres surrounding Limekiln Lake from Gould in 1960, then another Gould parcel encompassing Lost Ponds and containing approximately 1,803 acres in 1962. An individual owner sold the State a parcel of 356 acres including Beaver Lake in 1963. The majority of what is now the MRPWF and the northern part of the West Canada Lake Wilderness was added to the Forest Preserve in 1963 when Gould Paper Company sold the State a tract of 50,970 acres stretching from Horn Lake on the west to Manbury Mountain on the east. Major subsequent additions included 602 acres surrounding Wakely Dam and the north end of Cedar River Flow from Finch, Pruyn and Company in 1964 and two large parcels acquired from International Paper Company: the 1,120‐acre Cellar Mountain parcel in 1986 and a tract of 9,925 acres south of Wakely Mountain in 1988. The larger parcel was acquired subject to a 1987 easement conveyed by IP to Hamilton County for the maintenance of the four miles of Cedar River Road which crossed the parcel. Appendix 25 contains an acquisition map.

A small parcel was acquired in 1981 along Route 28. This acquisition included access to the shore of Fourth Lake. However, there is no potential to develop any water access at this location. Appendix 15 contains a deed and sketch map for this parcel.

Moose River Plains Overview

After this major acquisition, the Department took an active approach to the management of the area then referred to as the Moose River Recreation Area, a name which reflected the intent behind the purchase. From the beginning, the Department pursued the development of an extensive road system to provide public access to the remote interior for hunting, trapping, fishing and camping. An early Department report indicated that there were about 178 miles of primary gravel roads and an equal extent of secondary and winter roads throughout the former Gould lands. However none of the roads was suitable for public motor vehicle use without significant improvement. Minutes to a meeting of Department staff on December 9, 1963 included an estimated cost of $25,000 for the annual maintenance of 50 miles of roads and bridges. Starting in 1964, Division of Fish and Wildlife staff used heavy equipment to improve roads initially identified for public use. When the area first was opened to the public on October 23, 1964, the road connecting the Limekiln and Cedar River entrances had just been cleared by bulldozer, but remained difficult to traverse. In addition to the LLCR Road, the Rock Dam Road, Otter Brook Road and Sly Pond Loop were open to public use by permit for a total of about 30 miles. Fifty‐six parking areas were established along the road system. At the entrance gates, cars were assigned parking areas and travel was allowed only to and from those areas. The public were four‐wheel drive vehicles or tire chains. Pickups with slip‐on campers were permitted from the start, but because the roads were not yet suitable, trailers were not permitted.

Speed Limit 15 MPH

In a road plan adopted in 1965, roads to be designated were divided into three categories. Twenty‐two miles would be first priority roads, open to all traffic; 30.5 miles would be second priority roads open only to fourwheel drive vehicles; and 7.5 miles would be administrative roads restricted to use by Department staff for crossing private property. In the first years after the area was opened to the public, access remained difficult because of the effects of weather on road conditions. In the summer of 1965, work needed to make the roads passable delayed opening until July 1. In order to minimize fire danger and facilitate the disposal of trash, the public was allowed to camp only in areas adjacent to the roads and for a maximum of 3 days. Trash receptacles eventually were provided at most campsites and Department staff collected trash twice a week through the 1970s. The trash was deposited at a dump site south of the LLCR Road east of Helldiver Pond.

Helldiver Pond in Evening

The road crew worked steadily year by year to improve the roads with the intention of ultimately allowing them to be traveled safely by cars. After the extensive logging by Gould, especially after the 1950 Blowdown, much of the area was occupied by thick low vegetation, the tops of harvested and wind‐thrown trees. Foot travel was difficult. To allow hunters to more easily travel through more remote areas in search of game, Fish and Wildlife staff used a bulldozer to clear and extend logging roads and skid trails to serve as foot trails, starting in the late 1960s. Trails cleared in this way include routes to Mitchell Ponds, Bear Pond, Lost Ponds, Cellar Pond, Beaver Lake, Sly Pond and Squaw Lake, as well as those along Benedict Creek and Butter Brook. A number of routes cleared at that time are now within the West Canada Lake Wilderness, including the trails to Horn Lake and Falls Pond. Many of the cleared routes extended beyond the trails currently marked and maintained. A map prepared by Jack Harnish, a member of the crew that did the trail clearing work, is on file with the Department.

Direction Sign at The Big T Junction

The minutes of the December 9, 1963 Department staff meeting mentioned above included in the list of recommendations for the operation of the area that the Department should establish several small camping areas to include table, fireplace and latrine throughout the area adjacent to the roads where parties can park and camp. By 1965 the Department began constructing campsites and installing fireplaces, picnic tables and privies, which were built in a field just west of the Cedar River entrance. At each suitable location along the road system, a bulldozer was used to make a short access driveway and level an area where a car or pickup truck could park and camp. A number of campsites were created at former log landings. Many of the areas originally intended as roadside parking areas later were converted to campsites. Campsite construction was completed by the late 1960s.

Campsite 55

Because of the importance of the Plains as a deer wintering area, the Departments game management staff began studying the area in 1931. Hunting and fishing advocates such as the Adirondack Conservation Council supported the acquisition of the Plains and the development of its roads, trails and campsites for hunting and fishing access. In 1965 and 1966 with federal Pittman‐Robertson Act funding, 30 log landings were graded for hunter parking access and 30,000 trees were planted in the Plains area as an experiment intended to provide winter deer shelter.

Tall Pines in the Plains

In 1965 housing was constructed for the Limekiln and Cedar River gatekeepers. The possibility of a use fee was discussed, but no fee was charged during the early years. During the 1976 season the Department charged a fee of $1.50 or $2.00 per car. A subsequent assessment determined that most of the revenue generated by the fee was offset by the costs of staffing and administration. The fee was discontinued the following year.

Entrance to Moose River Plains

Work to clear hunter access trails by bulldozer continued for a few years. However, after repeated incidents of public motor vehicle travel on these trails, 16 barriers were installed in 1970, and motor vehicles no longer were used to maintain the trails. Also in 1970, the original road plan was changed to close 22.5 miles of the original III. Management and Policy Moose River Plains Wild Forest Revised Draft Unit Management Plan/Draft Generic Environmental Impact Statement ‐ July 2010 67 30.5 miles of secondary roads to the public and retain them as administrative roads. The other 8 miles, consisting of the beginning of the Otter Brook truck trail and the road to the Indian River, were upgraded to primary roads and the gate at the Otter Brook bridge was removed.

Otter Brook Bridge is Closed

As work progressed over the years and the condition of the road system improved, the Department relaxed restrictions on the types of vehicles the public could drive. In the late 1960s the Department decided to allow motorhomes up to 22 feet long to travel the roads through big game hunting season, as long as they had tire chains. It was thought that they were less likely to get stuck than vehicles towing camping trailers, which the Department continued to prohibit. However, pressure to allow trailers began early and continued to grow. After Department staff conducted an assessment of the roads and determined that they had been sufficiently improved, they decided to allow trailers beginning around 1980.

For several years after the Department first erected wood signs in the MRPWF, they were repeatedly damaged by black bears. To prevent further destruction, metal signs were installed in 1975.

6.5 Miles to Lost Pond

A detailed Department map prepared in 1977 shows 222 campsite and parking area locations along the road system. The map provides an inventory of the structures at each site, showing the prevalence of fireplaces, picnic tables and privies at the time. Twenty sites were closed in 1980 after the reclassification of the southwestern portion of the area to wilderness, when the road to the Indian River was gated at Indian Lake. The campsites were not given numbers on the ground until the 1980s. A number of original sites that had fallen into disuse were bypassed when the numbers were assigned, so that in 2008 there are 170 numbered sites. In 2006 sites 7, 34, 66, 73, 90, 119a, 130 , and site 1 at Cedar River Flow were modified and designated as accessible sites.

In recent years, maintenance activities have focused on keeping the road system in passable condition, replacing inadequate culverts and trail maintenance. In 2001, four gravel pits were reclaimed and replanted.

Warning! Road Washed Out

In 1996 an engineering evaluation was completed for the public motor vehicle roads in the unit. The report focused on 8 major and 12 minor culvert problem areas and made recommendations for replacing existing culverts with new structures of sufficient capacity to handle a design storm of 100‐year occurrence probability with a snowmelt allowance. Between 2000 and 2005, 11 of the 12 minor sites, with the exception of site 10B, were addressed and site 5A of the major sites is the only one complete. The report and an updated status can be found in Appendix 22.

Straight Thru the Plains

In 1974, jurisdiction over approximately one acre of State land was transferred from the Hudson River‐Black River Regulating District to the Department for use as a canoe access site on Sixth Lake. In 1986, the Department transferred jurisdiction of 6.41 acres of State land along Sagamore Road to DOT. This parcel encompasses an old sand pit and was transferred so that DOT could relocate their maintenance facility from an area immediately adjacent to State Route 28 to a more screened location. DEC reserved the right to use gravel from this site, as long as it did not interfere with the DOT facility. Currently DOT does not use the site, but may use it at some time in the future.

Moose River Plains Overview

When the Moose River Recreation Area was first opened to the public, use levels were relatively high. During big game hunting season in 1964, 2,021 vehicles with 5,764 passengers signed in. Though the area originally was purchased and developed for use by hunters, trappers and anglers, the first 10‐day report filed after the 1965 opening on July 1 indicated that 75 percent of visitors were campers and sight‐seers. In 1966, 7,809 people signed in as anglers and 23,408 camper‐days were recorded during big game hunting season, about 6,000 of which were recorded for campsites beyond the Otter Brook bridge. Big game hunters were very successful in the early years, harvesting 373 deer and 15 bear in 1966 and a high of 404 deer in 1968. Deer harvest levels declined sharply after 1969, with 77 harvested in 1970 and 11 in 1971. Since the 1970s the number of deer taken by hunters has increased and in recent years harvest numbers have nearly returned to the levels recorded in the 1960s. The MRPWF remains popular with hunters, trappers and anglers.

Thunderstorm Coming to the Plains

Early management included the adoption of a number of regulations in 1972. These regulations, which still apply to public use of the area, require visitors to register at the Cedar River and Limekiln entrances, require the use of tire chains after October 1 except on 4‐wheel drive vehicles, prohibit snowmobile operation during the big game hunting season and prohibit the use of motorcycles and motorized bicycles. Current conditions may warrant the elimination of the registration requirement and the prohibition against motorcycle use.