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Daylight Savings Time Comes to An End

I have to think it’s a good thing that daylight savings time has finally begun. The fact is that getting up at 7:00 AM in pitch darkness is no fun. The sunset at 5:45 PM isn’t much fun either, and the 4:45 PM sunset will mean the commute home is dark, but so be it. It’s part of the grand cycle known as the seasons.

Setting Sunset

The net result is long evenings, which haren’t a totally bad thing either. I like having a little more darkness when camping, as it gives more time for a campfire, and cooking dinner at night. Sure the day is rushed, but the evening is more relaxed. I guess I could or should go to bed earlier, but that never happens either – even in the cold of the back country this time of year.

Darkness Upon Us

Set your clock back, and let’s get our November on. Christmas and the end of the year is around soon..

Gorging on Gorges, An Adventure, Day 2

I awoke for Day 2 of Gorging on Gorges, and it was a fairly warm morning, at least for the day before Columbus Day, in the back country of the Finger Lakes National Forest. I decided I wanted a full breakfast this morning, so I got some sausage frying up, the coffee peculator doing its thing, then scrambled some eggs with mushrooms and sweet peppers. It was a good breakfast. Packed up my gear, folded the flag, headed out on Potamac Road, and stopped grab a few pictures of the pastures along the road.

Potamac Road 2

Driving along all these back-country roads, I was amazed during most of my trip in New York State, on how many anti-SAFE Act signs there were in front of houses and farms along the way. If there ever was an issue that galvinized the backwoods of Upstate NY, it has to be that stupid gun law. I would reminded of the opposition to the SAFE Act all week, until I finally crossed into Pennsylvania state-line – the last SAFE Act sign ended a ¼ mile before I left the state. I bet you that poor dairy farmer, was awful pissed to live on the wrong side of an imaginary line, so they had to be subjected to stupid laws, high taxes, and anti-farm regulations.

Across the Gorge

Drove down to Trumansburg and then to Taughannock Falls State Park’s Gorge Overlook. The main overlook, next to the parking lot was a complete tourist trap, with dozens of tourists, many obviously traveling a long ways to get there, crowded around the overlook deck, as everyone – myself included – scrambled to get that one trademark photo of the falls. I was glad to get away from that overlook.

Started along the North Rim trail along the gorge. I was looking for secret places to find isolated, beautiful views of fall, and the hike did not disappoint. I found one perfectly shrouded in colorful fall leaves, but with a view of falls. I snapped a picture. I continued along, and found some good views in the gorge, showing the depth and width it below the falls. Then I ran into Robin Smith and his wife – Twitter and Facebook friend. Chatted for five minutes, then I proceeded on.

A Secret Spot for Observing the Falls

In part, I was in a bit of a rush, trying to find a place to take a piss. All that coffee plus maybe an eye-opener drink wasn’t great for the bladder. There also were a few to many people around to do it right on trail, especially being so close to the road most of way. But eventually I did it, and was on my way.

The North Rim trail runs into the Black Diamond Trail, which crosses an old railroad bridge, converted to a hiking trail via some concrete slaps and fence placed on it. The high, old railroad trestle provides views of a smaller, upper waterfalls and the little known, but quite impressive upper gorge. The upper gorge, above the falls, is a deep, narrow, but beautiful gorge where the Taughannock Creek runs, cutting deep into the valley. For the best views, you have to take the South Rim trail, which is what I took next.

Upper Gorge

The South Rim trail is impressive. There is the big parking lot from the Gorge Overlook on Taughannock Road, or you can alternatively take Gorge Road, and halfway down it, park in the smallish pull-off. Don’t miss it though. If you follow the South Rim Trail, there are some views of the gorge below the falls, and one view of the gorge, extending out to Seneca Lake.

I hiked back to my pickup truck, and then drove down to the main part of Taughannock Falls State Park. I parked in main portion of the park, rather then the always crowded and tight to park in lot next to the trail to Gorge Trail, which runs inside the gorge to below the falls. Not wanting my truck damaged by an overly excited tourist, I figured it’s always safer to park in an empty lot. Walked down to Seneca Lake, and noticed how green the trees were still on the lake shore. This contrasts to sections of US 20, the previous day, where the colors were burnt out to say the least. I was also surprised to see the AES Cayuga in Lansing, across the lake, burning coal today. They must keep in standby for when the line frequency drops to low locally. Stopped in the bathrooms at Taughannock Falls State Park, which were just very gross – clean, but rusty and in old shape – like so many state facilities.

AES Cayuga Coal Plant in Lansing

Then I hiked along the gorge trail to the fall, taking several moments to stop and take photos, and explore the river bed. I had previously been here, in mid-July, but it certainly was different now that fall was in full swing. The trail was popular, and in some places, downright crowded, but the riverbed, at least as far as one could hike, wasn’t nearly as crowded. The gorge walls were pretty with the fall leaves, although by the time I got the falls, the sun was right over the top of the waterfalls, so most of the pictures of the falls came out pretty poorly.

The Falls From Below

Headed back to the truck, then drove down to Ithaca. The traffic was as awful as always in that city. I had stop at the pharmacy, then it was off to Buttermilk Falls State Park. I was surprised they were still charging – the last day must be Columbus Day. By now, it was too late to keep Robert Treman State Park on my list; that will have to wait until tomorrow. This time, I intentionally hiked up the North Rim trail, up to West King Road, then down into the gorge. Last November, I hiked up the gorge, so I figured it would be interesting to go the other way this time.

North Rim Trail

Hiking down Buttermilk Falls was scenic, but not as a scenic as I remember it. Maybe after all this time hiking in gorges and exploring the gorges, they also start to look a bit alike – and we are only day two. It’s more scenic then most of other glens, besides Enfield Glen and Watkins Glen, but it’s still a step below them. The gorge swimming pool at the bottom of the gorge it was nice.

 An Autumn Afternoon at the Falls

It was a good hike, until descending the slippery stairs, I slipped, and dropped my camera, and it fell like 20 feet, hitting a dozen of the stone stairs before coming to a rest. The fall did some serious damage to the camera, as one might expect. The protective UV filter was shattered, the case was cracked up the lens. I was not pleased, to say the least. There may have been a few cuss words. But so be it. The camera was under a drop warranty that I bought when I got it, but I was more worried that the fall would damage the camera, so I would be out of luck for taking more pictures for the rest of the trip.

I might have been pissed at myself for my careless handling and missteps, for a little while, cussed myself out. I was less pissed when I discovered the lens wasn’t destroyed, only the $5 UV filter. The camera seemed to continue to work well, although the flash doesn’t always pop up – a feature I almost never use at any rate. The camera seemed to work okay, and I picked up a second UV filter at Walmart later in the evening. Later in the week, I noticed the automatic focus was sticking – fortunately I have a drop warranty on the lens too. One of these days, I will get around to sending the camera back to the factory for warranty repairs or replacement.

Nice Little Falls

Once I got over the shock, anger, and amusement of smashing up my camera, and got the shattered UV filter off the camera – it took a little fiddling, as the impact of the fall bent the ring – I enjoyed the remaining hike and vistas of falls. Snapped several other quite nice pictures. Went to Walmart to pick up a few supplies, then back to Finger Lakes National Forest, for another evening at camp.

When I drove up to the campsites on Chicken Coop Road, I was pleasantly surprised to find out the campsite I like was vacant. Whoever was the night before packed up, and there was no mess left over. Hung the flag up, set up the table, hung lights up, and gathered wood. Started a campfire, cracked open a beer, had soup and sandwitches for dinner. The colors in the woods were about peak here. Around 6:15 PM, walked across the road, to take a closer look at the cows grazing in the pasture.

Pasture View from Campsite

I stayed up until 8:15 PM, when it started to sprinkle, and quickly turned to a heavier rain, and decided it was time to seek shelter under the truck cap. Again a bit annoyed about the rain, and my stupidity about not setting up a tarp earlier in the evening. I listened to the radio for a bit, played on my cellphone, and retired for the night. The good news was that by morning, the rain would have passed, although the skies would be cloudy, damp, and the temperature only around 47 degrees.

Gorging on Gorges, An Adventure, Day 1

About a month ago, I took a trip I gave the name “Gorging on Gorges”. As the name would suggest, most of the trip involved visiting various gorges, taking photographs of them, and otherwise exploring them. About half of them I had previously been to, while the rest were new. I also visited several other state parks, state forests, and national forests – and did something I haven’t done in a long time – camped one night in a developed campground.

Towards the Park

I started out my trip from Albany, taking US Route 20 West from I-88. I really wanted to avoid expressways for the bulk of my trip, is my general view is that expressways are the best way to get across America without really seeing anything. It’s more then a philosophical argument for me – what’s the purpose of a vacation if your rushing from point “A” to point “B”.

The first part of the trip, I drove to Chittenango Falls State Park via Nelson and beautiful farm country so high above. I walked down into the gorge, and up and around the falls. The color was somewhat muted, but it still was quite pretty. Then I headed off, taking some side roads as recommended by my GPS’s most direct route, and ended up passing a few miles from Labrador Hollow and the beautiful Labrador Pond, and said, heck, I got to stop on by there.

I drove down to Labrador Pond parking area, and hiked down to the pond. The colors were still not fully-turned on Jones Hill, but on Labrador Mountain were well past peak. Despite the crowds of fall foliage peepers from Syracuse, crowding the area, there were adequate opportunities for solitude. I walked down to the lake, snapped a few photos, then hiked the nature trail/boardwalk. It was nice. It also was great to see the boardwalk being used by a disabled man – he could get out and enjoy nature, despite his difficulties he had walking. One of the large dairies in the area was spreading something on fields nearby, and it sure stunk – it seemed nastier then fermented grain, although that’s probably what it was. Didn’t stick around too long, as I had places to go.

Somewhat Faded Colors

Drove down through Prebles, another deep, rich agricultural valley, dotted by large dairies that take advantage of the area’s rich soils for producing many bushels of corn on each acre. Got held up for about 5 minutes during a paving job, where they had the road restricted to one lane, for what had to been a half mile or so. Noticed how most of remaining trash burning barrels had disappeared from the landscape, that might have only been there 3 or 4 years ago.

Then it was off to Homer, where I passed a moose, made out of welded scrap metal along the road. It was kind of a neat roadside attraction, and I really should have stopped and got a picture, but I had a tight schedule and was burning daylight. I would come to later regret not getting that picture, but heck, I figure I can probably find a picture of it on the Internet using Google Images or Flickr. If not, it will certainly be there, the next time I find myself going through this roadside wilderness.

Millard Fillmore Historic Marker

I got lost on my way to Moravia. Not really lost, because I was following the GPS, but because I had programmed the “most direct route” rather then “fastest route”, the GPS.decided to take me up a rough dirt road through Hewitt State Forest. I declined, and eventually the GPS found a new route, that happened to take me past Milton Fillmore’s birthplace. There is now a picnic pavilion and a some landscaping in that location. I turned around, snapped a few pictures, and explored it briefly. I wanted to a get a picture for dad for his historical markers collection.

Then it was off to Fillmore Glen. I was running a bit late at this point, but it’s a pleasant drive down to Filmore. The landscape is pretty rural until you drop, rather quickly into Moravia. Moravia is a pretty, small rural town; the glen is located at far southernly end of the town. There was a bridge being replaced in town, and you had to wait, for what seemed like an eternity for the light to green on the on-one lane bridge.

Finally, I got to the park entrance. The older guy there, grumbled when I said I had an Empire Pass. He was like “where is it – I can’t see it”. The rear window on my truck where the Empire Pass is tinted, but not that dark. I was slightly annoyed that the park entrance guy wasn’t friendly, and I forgot to ask for a map. I was kind of rushing. Got parked, and there was a big wedding going on, complete with horse drawn carriage. Crossed the “Dry Creek” and started up the trail, first to the Cow Shed falls, then decided to take the Northern Rim Trail. It wasn’t apparent at first that it was the rim trail, but I didn’t have a map. I actually printed up a map, and had it my truck, but I of course forgot it.

Small Waterfall in Gorge

The Northern Rim climbs a fair bit, then runs along the rim, with very limited and occasional views. It crosses a pretty little creek that tumbles down the gorge, and eventually leads to a path down to the gorge trail, three-quarters the way up the gorge. I decided to hike down to the gorge trail, and then head back down the gorge towards the parking area. I missed a bit of the gorge trail, and the overlook, but so be it, time was tight.

The Gorge trail was scenic, but certainly not the most scenic of gorges. There were several small waterfalls, and some stairs and bridges, although most of the trail was gravel along the edge. The “Dry Creek” had plenty of water, but in general, the gorges was smaller then other Finger Lake gorges. There were several glens of interest, but the most beautiful portion of the glen was the Cow Sheds in the button of the gorge. Cow Sheds falls, are the wider portion of the gorge, where at one time, historically, cows would gather for shelter in severe or cold weather.

Cow Sheds Falls

Snapped a few more pictures of Fillmore Glen, and it was off to Ithaca. I made pretty good time to Ithaca, although I admit I certainly wasn’t poking along. I really should have stopped more places, but I wanted to get to the Finger Lakes National Forest relatively early so I could set up camp and/or make alternative plans should my desired campsite on Chicken Coop Road be unavailable. Passed a giant bull statue on a farm, along NY 38, a few miles south of Moravia. I really should have stopped for a picture, but I was burning daylight, and the Finger Lakes National Forest, was over an hour away. I think this is the one, that the farmer paid like $10,000 to haul from an abandoned Steakhouse in Binghamton to the farm. I am sure the bull will be there for a long time – in case anybody forgot what is raised on farms.

Then it was down to Freeville.. The only thing real remarkable about that town, was the pine barrens and swamps, consisting of heading into it. When you think of the Finger Lakes, you tend to think open landscapes and farms, at least until you get mostly south of them of them, or in the highest points to the west. But not here. The Finger Lakes Trust owns some land, on the north side, where it the land is mostly the backwaters of the Oswaco Inlet.

Finally made it to Ithaca by 4:45 PM. I was lucky at this hour that traffic wasn’t too much of a slog by Ithaca standards, then I was off heading up Trumansberg Road. It seemed like an endless drive. Finally made it to Perry City, and then to the Finger Lakes National Forest. There was no sign of the government closure when I got there, but a bit disappointed, my favorite campsite on Chicken Coop Road was already taken. It was off to campsite on Potamac Road, just past the hunting camp.

I wasn’t thrilled by campsite, a big field campsite, but it had some trees along one edge for hanging the flag and lights. It was pretty good site for observing the stars, although there was a hunting camp down the road a little ways, so I had to keep the music down. I really don’t want to piss off the hunters. I gathered up some firewood from the woods, and got a fire started. The sun was fading fast, but so be it. I wired up my lights, some Christmas lights, and got the spot light on the flag.

It got dark, and I tuned into the Ithaca Progressive Radio Station, and gazed on the stars for a couple of hours. Nibbled on some snacks, cracked open a beer or two. Tossed some more wood on fire, and was happy to finally be on vacation.

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It was a good first day… more adventures to come.

I Hate the Good Life in Delmar

I have never really liked living in Delmar or working in Albany. While it sure it easy to roll out of bed, take a hot shower in my natural-gas heated apartment with electricity that lights a room with a flip of a switch, then take a bus downtown to my good-paying job, it really is a hell of a life that I dislike with a pleasure. I go to work most days in my ugly beige cubicle, write memos, mark up documents, and talk on the phone about business for hours a day, then go home, often holding my head in despair about the day’s events by the time I disembark the bus in front of my apartment.

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Its a good life. At least on paper. I got a really nice pickup truck and cap, that I camp in most of the summer, rambling around the various wild forests, state forests, and national forests in the 400 or 500 miles radius of where I live. I get to have many campfires, cook over a fire or on a camp-stove, and get to see many scenic vistas. Compared to many people who struggle to make ends meet, I guess I have a very good life. People who don’t own cars, and can’t afford the increasingly high price for gasoline, don’t get to see the beauty I see.

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But still it’s an urban life, that in many ways I dislike.

A special time in my life was going to college at Plattsburgh State. Not particularly because of the college, but because of the small town life. People are laid back in a small town, and vast agricultural landscapes and mountains are never far beyond. People understand what its like to be country. There is a deep connection to the land in a small town like Plattsburgh, something that is missing in a city like Albany, where urban concerns such as pollution, crime, drugs, and violence seem to dominate the headlines.

Maples Climb the Hill

I’ve resolved to spend at least until Summer 2015, in Albany, if all goes well. Then I tell myself, I am getting out of Albany and New York all together.

Abandoning Existing Roads in Essex Chain Tract Makes No Sense

There are some wilderness advocates in our state that are calling for abandoning of existing roads in the Essex Chain tract to create an expanded Hudson Gorge Wilderness-area. Their argument is that by closing off these roads to all uses except foot traffic, it’s an opportunity to create yet another wilderness area in the Adirondacks – as if there was a shortage of wilderness areas.

The Proposals.

Essex-Chain-MapoptHere is the vision of the towns, where they propose to keep most of the existing roads open for low-speed motor vehicle travel.

Essex-Chain-DEC-MapThe DEC in contrast is proposing to limit most of the existing dirt roads to hiking, mountain bikes, and snowmobiles, but also preserves access to the Hudson River, Cedar River, and Essex Tract within a 1/4 mile buffer. The buffer is designed so that people on the lakes can’t hear or see motor vehicles, which could compromise their experience.

council.map_This is the proposal that the wilderness advocates. Not much access to the lakes, and a banning of mountain bikes and snowmobiles from existing roads.

Why It’s Important to Protect Public Access.

Low-speed motor vehicle roads are an important to making the back-country accessible and widely available. The reality is relatively few people use our public wild spaces, with most people preferring to staying within the comfort of the cities and suburbs, with cable television, high speed internet, wash tubs, and flush toilets. It’s important to encourage public use of our lands, to create a constituency to protect these lands for future use.

Washed Out Section of Cheney Pond Road

Nobody is arguing for a widening or expansion of the Essex Chain tract roads. This would be constitutionally prohibited, and could detract from these wonderful lands. Nobody is arguing for blacktop pavement, flush toilets, water fountains, or developed campsites. In contrast, any use of these of these lands would be primitive, with facilities limited to dirt seasonal-use roads, outhouses, and designated campsites that have only natural-stone fireplaces. Even so-called roadside campsites, would have little more then a place to park a vehicle, a fire ring made of local stone and maybe an outhouse. Picnic tables are generally not allowed in wild forest areas.

Beaver Creek Campsite

Even with the existing dirt roads, the only people who would drive miles back into the woods would be people who don’t mind getting dirty, and want to go canoe, fish, hike, hunt, or camp in a wild setting. Fears of overuse are well overblown, because there are many other wild forest areas – with roads, campsites, trails, and minimal development – that get light use at best.

Camping on McCarthy Hill Road

Last November, I spent two rather cold nights right before southern zone hunting season camping on McCarthy Hill Road near Ellicotville in Cattaraugus County. Located about 1/2 mile from Little Rock City, a popular place for hiking and exploring various “buildings” which are actually just very large, square rocks, left from the glaciers.

Exploring Rock City

The campsites near Little Rock City have little pavilions.

Tent Camping Pavlion

The campsites along McCarthy Hill Road are simple roadside sites, with little more then stone campfire rings and a “Camp Here” sign nailed to the trees.

Final Campfire

Up here, you are camping on a mountain, or at least a fairly large hill, so it’s pretty cold especially on the first day of southern zoning hunting season.

Have you ever driven under a 28,500 ton Seawaymax ship?

But some nice warm coffee can help things out a lot, even when the themometer in your pickup truck says it’s only 19 degrees. Plus a good breakfast made on the campstove.

19 degree at Camp

15 miles to the south is Allegany State Park. 40 miles will get you to the Allegheny National Forest in Pennsylvania. Likewise, Jamestown is about 40 miles to the west. I’ve heard it’s popular in the summer. 15 miles to the north is Zoar Valley Unique Area, a great gorge where the Cattaragus Creek runs, and 50 miles northeast is Letchworth State Park.


View Larger Map

There is good cell service and 4G wireless internet service. Bring your own electricity.

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Here’s a map.

When the Rain Stopped for a While at Moose River Plains

Nobody will kid you about it being a rainy summer. But it seems like no place has been rainier in the past year then Moose Plains. For the past three weekends I spent at Moose Plains it rained. That was Moosefest 2012, last September, followed by Memorial Day Weekend 2013 and Labor Day Weekend 2013. Almost every day, during those weekends, it rained, only stopping momentarily with the sun peaking out occasionally.

Listening to Radio in the Rain

Part of the reason why I spent so much time in the rain at Moose River Plains, is I was invested in an idea. Moose River Plains is 120 plus miles from home, so it seems a bit too far to go up there just on a whim, compared to say Piseco-Powley Road at 75 miles or Burnt-Rossman Hills at 55 miles, each way. Often like with Memorial Day Weekend, I get excited about the concept of visiting Moose Plains – the hell with the weather. After all, it had been six months since I had spent any time up at the plains. Labor Day didn’t seem like that much of a wash from the forecast, until it rained almost every day. And the prior year – I knew with my work schedule – that if I didn’t go up to Moose Plains during Moosefest week, in the rain, I wouldn’t be back there until spring time.

Increasingly Soggy Cedar River Limekiln Lake Road

So it’s been wet. But I figured spending time at Moose Plains still was better then a day stuck at home – the hell with the gasoline burned to get up there, drive from place to place, or for that matter, to keep the lights burning brightly well into the night. But rain can put a damper into plans. Who really wants to go kayaking on Cedar River Flow in the pouring rain or hiking Wakely Mountain in the rain? Not like your going to see much in the rain, plus dampness makes everything miserable, even if you are plenty warm. Skin chaffs from moisture. So I spend my days under the tarp, reading, listening to podcasts, and watching a smoldering campfire struggle against the rain.

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Finally, this past extended weekend, I got a break from the rain. There were blue skies for two and half days, although by Saturday, high clouds and haze at times kind of drowned out the sunshine. A foliage trip, there probably were more hunters on the trails then color on the trees. But as weekend progressed, so did the color. And with the chance to go out and enjoy the outdoors, I finally did get out around to see many places at Moose Plains that I longing to see for some time, once again. I spent two beautiful moonlight evenings, hanging off Wakely Dam, enjoying the stars under the bright full moon. I haven’t camped at Wakely Dam on Cedar River Flow in years. I hiked up Wakely Mountain one day, then paddle around the Cedar River Flow, then Wakely Dam, then Helldiver Pond all in one day. The next day, I camped down at Campsite 56, my favorite wilderness campsite in the plains, followed by a surprising nice day, with good foliage, which gave me a chance to visit Indian Lake, off the Indian River at Moose Plains.

Scenic Paddle

But then again, by 5:30 PM, the rain came again, and once again I camping under the tarp, as the fire struggles to keep up against the rain. I guess rain is just a natural thing.

Rain Pounds On Down

Shrug.

More Choppiness