Search Results for: west mountain state forest

Been starting to think about a trip out west next summer 🌡

A lot of my colleagues have been taking trips overseas like Europe or to sunny beaches and cruises. While I don’t have much of an interest in doing that kind of vacation, I’ve been thinking more lately about taking an airplane and renting a car to explore a different part of America that I don’t know much about.

Probably with a rental car, I would travel the back roads and camp in dispersed camping in the National Forest back country. Stay as far away as possible from the tourist traps, see the real rural areas where folks farm and homestead, live close to the land. Spend time in the woods and learn about the real way things are. Visit local grocery stores and businesses, drive past real farms and small towns. Learn about the real culture not how the marketeers sell it.

Maybe in the era of interstate highway and the chain restaurants, a small towns are the same. After all, between Fox News and NPR America pretty much has one or two news narratives. West Virginia, in my experience is a lot more like Upstate NY than many would like to admit, the Monongahela National Forest isn’t that dissimilar to the Green National Forest or Allegheny. Dairies and cattle farms generally are pretty similar wherever you go. Factories and small towns generally have the same look and feel. Some places have stronger accents then others but aren’t that dissimilar. But I want to find out.

With the internet I am learning there is a lot more of America out there, places that share more of my values, and aren’t the high tax liberal places like New York State where it seems like we are loosing our freedoms every day. There are wide open places, not so dissimilar to New York with farms and mountains but without all the idiocy and work around that come from living in an urban oriented state. Places that actually respect the second amendment and gun rights. That don’t look down on rural life and practices necessary to manage nature for man’s benefit.

I hear a lot of good things about the Ozarks of Missouri and Arkansas. But also the big mountains of Idaho and the Rocky Mountain West. Tennessee is also interesting though I have questions about that state too. Wisconsin and Ohio in the Midwest are quite appealing away from cities, especially for homesteading even if they are quite flat.

The Mid-West

This book I am reading makes a good point about the Midwest – the land is cheap, people are friendly and laid back, zoning and codes regulations tend to be much less with less enforcement. Conservative cultural norms are more laid back, preferring that government stay off people’s land and out of private businesses.

Building and living in an off-grid ‘tiny’ house or cabin is much easier when you don’t have to deal with nearly as aggressive of code inspectors. Buying a handgun or other firearm for hunting and personal protection is just as easy – fill out the federal paperwork, have them do a quick background check, and pay the cashier, and walk out with your new gun. Outhouses and composting toilets are easier to get approved, if there is any review at all. As long as there isn’t a high fire risk, you’re free to burn your trash and debris, typically with no permit. Off-road shops, ATVs, snowmobiles, and alike abound, often with a good trail system to ride not too far from home. Good-sized white tails, geese, ducks for hunting and other wildlife abound in the rural landscape.

The flip side, as the book notes, is the Midwest is mostly flat or with rolling hills. There aren’t the big mountains to hike, the state forests and national forests are much smaller part of the landscape – and often far away. The distances are spread out, they mean a lot of driving to get to work, shopping, or healthcare. Much of the Midwest is gritty and industrial, with lots of big farms and industry in cities and surrounding areas. Farmers for the most part don’t care what you do on your land, but recognize they have a business to do and that includes spreading manure and applying pesticides their fields, sometimes late at night with big loud tractors. Cows can be noisy, even if they are fun to watch graze. Hunters hunt, they have loud guns. People love shooting. I get it, I grew up in the country. I like doing many of those things too.

I am not one for conservative politics per se. If anything, I have become less political in recent years, focused on my own life concerns, making and saving money. I actually kind of like the idea of living in a culture that is less politically liberal, one more focused on natural resources and using them efficiently. Is there a thread in conservative politics that is entirely irresponsible and not based in reality? Sure, but it’s hard for a farmer, a hunter, and outdoors-man not to love and respect the resources that produce for them.

Mountains Don’t Seem So Big Anymore in West Virginia πŸ—»

Evening at Canaan Wildlife Refuge

This time I was less impressed with the mountains in West Virginia. While certainly bigger than the hills I woke up to this morning camping at Long Pond, they just don’t seem the way they once did in West Virginia.

Maybe it’s because it’s my fifth trip to West Virginia and the scenery isn’t as new and impressive. Visiting Dolly Sods from the much higher base elevation from the West – namely Canaan Valley Wildlife Refuge and Forest Road 80 Freeland Road made the 4,000 summit less impressive. Plus I didn’t get to the real high country – Spruce Knob Mountain area a dozen miles south.

But also looking at Canaan and Backbone Mountain from Olson Firetower made me rethink how impressive the landscape really is. Some of the peaks in that part of West Virginia while maybe high in total elevation are rather flat peaked and modest in elevation gain. I guess if I had been more around the Allegheny Front, North Mountain and Backbone Mountain from Bears Rocks in West Virginia I might have had an alternative take.

I don’t know. But maybe my dreams of the impressive hills and hollows of West Virginia where just that – more myth then reality. The truth is I see a lot of the hilltowns of Albany County or even the hollows of Schoharie County in West Virginia. The people there aren’t much different than the people I grew up knowing. The trailers, junk cars and ramshackle homestead all look familiar. Even much of Dolly Sods and Canaan Mountain remind me of parts of the Taconics and Berkshire Mountains, Canaan Heights, WV has a striking resemblance to Canaan, NY especially if you visit the high point at Harvey Hill State Forest.

West Virigina is Very Different from Virigina

One thing that always strikes me is how different West Virginia is from Virginia. You cross the Shenandoah Mountain and it’s like you are in a totally different world. Virginia is very southern, they act and talk very southern. West Virginia is Appalachian, they are much similar to what one would find in rural Upstate New York — especially the eastern half of the state where the mid-western accent isn’t that strong.

Virginia seems to bring a lot of tourists and has many tourist facilities. West Virginia in contrast is rustic and quiet. Harrisonburg and Stauton are fairly large cities, while across the Shenandoah Mountains you only have small rural hamlets and small cities like Moorefield. There is a lot of traffic in Virginia, not so much in small-town West Virginia.

Now I am sure that there are more rural and quiet sections of Virginia and more populated parts of West Virginia. Parts of West Virginia are certainly not as sleepy as the region when the National Forest predominates. And I’m sure some areas are more tourist draws.

 North Of Sugar Grove

Mountain Laurel and Great Laurel (Rhododendron)

Mountain Laurel is the State Flower in Pennsylvania, while Rhododendron is the State Flower of West Virginia. Both grow in both states, and can grow very thick mats making it difficult to travel in the back country. And I get them confused at times.

The best way to remember the different is “Mountain Laurel” is short words, therefore short leaves, while Rhododendron (aka Great Laurel) is a long word, therefor long leaves and is much taller.

Mountain Laurel tends to be in locations that are less forested and exposed to wind, like Dolly Sods while Canaan Heights has many great thickets of the Great Laurel, usually in the same areas that was replanted with Red Spruce by the CCC.

Week from now at this point I’ll likely be in West Virginia πŸ—»

So much though depends on the weather. I’m thinking if next weekend is as rainy as the early previews suggest, I’ll focus Saturday and Sunday on driving down to West Virginia and getting camp set up early for the week.

But if it looks like rain all week, then maybe not. I’m not going to postpone my vacation at this point but I might make it shorter, heading out to some place in New York State. Maybe the Finger Lakes National Forest again and then if we get a good run of nice weather I’ll head down to Pine Creek Gorge to do the rail trail for a few days or head to one of those campsites in Allegany or Cattaraugus County in Western NY. Who knows.

I just kind of want to be in West Virginia and have camp established so that I can crack open a beer and relax. Get out and ride my mountain bike around Canaan Heights from camp, hike the trails through the thick mountain laurel, watch the sunset, have a nice fire and then get a good night’s sleep. Cook some good and healthy camp food, sit and observe nature and the stars. Hike back to various scenic vistas. Just be myself as far away from Albany and my ordinary life for a while.