Observations in working with plexiglass / acrylic:

1) 0.08 inch aka 2 mm plexiglass is plenty thick for electronics cases. Relatively cheap, under $12 for a 18×24“ sheet at Lowes.

2) It’s better to spend your time carefully scoring the plexiglass and getting a deep straight groove in the plexiglass prior to snapping. Take your time, apply light but not too hard pressure on the scoring tool.

3) Use a metal square and clamp things down firmly. You don’t want the plexiglass to move while scoring or snapping.

4) Drag the point of the scoring tool over the glass with light pressure at a 45 angle. Use an inexpensive scoring tool, a knife won’t work as well.

5) Repeatly score the edges of the plexiglass on your break line. The score must be deepest here. If your score is insufficient on the edges, you will either end up cracking through plexiglass or getting an uneven break not following your score line.

6) Apply only modest pressure when breaking along the score line. If you can’t snap the plexiglass easily like breaking off a perforated sheet of paper, your score is too shallow along the edges.

7) Focus on getting the edges of your score as deep as possible. This can’t be stressed enough.

8) You can rework a bad break by scoring and breaking off excess material. You can also sand things down. But this is much harder that properly scoring the material in the first place. Plexiglass is hard material, it doesn’t sand down that easy.

9) Acrylic glue isn’t necessary for connecting pieces of plexiglass. You can use superglue with good results. Acrylic glue probably won’t even work that well with score and snap plexiglass due to rough surfaces and gaps and is toxic to use indoors. I might use the acrylic glue later on but for now I’m staying with the much cheaper super glue.

10) Even inexpensive thin plexiglass makes very nice looking cases for electronics. It’s quite easy to score and snap with practice. Once you get better with that you can order colored and tinted plexiglass for more options.